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Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast: Daily Summaries Delivered
by Eric J. Hörst
Training and performance podcasts by Eric Hörst, the internationally renowned author, researcher, climbing coach, and climber of 40 years. Monthly podcasts detail the latest training techniques to improve strength, power, endurance, as well as mental and technical skills. With his unique combination of veteran experience and knowledge of the cutting-edge research, Eric presents practical, effective guidelines to climb harder, reduce injury risk, and maximize the experience of moving over stone. Eric is one of the world's most knowledgeable climbing coaches and his eight books (and many foreign translations) have sold more than 300,000 copies worldwide. His latest book release is the 3rd edition of Training For Climbing.
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- 1 weeks ago1h 6m
#133 - CRUSHERS: Kevin Dahlstrom on His Life Reboot, Injury, TRT, and Climbing Hard Over Age 40
What if some of your best climbing is still ahead of you—even after age 40? My latest T4C Podcast guest, Kevin Dahlstrom, didn't climb his first 5.13 until age 50. Five years later, he was having the strongest season of his life and chasing 5.13c—until a freak accident in Mexico caused a catastrophic triceps tendon tear and major surgery. In this episode, Kevin and I dig into his comeback, training and recovery after 40, and why aging climbers need to become increasingly intentional about sleep, nutrition, mobility, recovery, and targeted training. We also explore health monitoring, testosterone, peptides, and Kevin's audacious long-term goal of climbing 5.14. But this conversation is about much more than climbing grades. Kevin left a highly successful corporate career in his late 40s to reorganize his life around something even more valuable: time. His idea of becoming a "time billionaire" sparks a fascinating discussion about aging, ambition, priorities, and how to stay strong, adventurous, and fully engaged with life for decades to come. Rundown 00:00 – Cold Open: Kevin's Midlife Reboot Kevin leaves a high-paying corporate career in Texas, moves his family to Colorado, climbs harder than ever—and then faces a catastrophic arm injury. 01:10 – Episode Introduction Introducing Kevin Dahlstrom, the CRUSHERS series, and the episode's central themes: climbing after 50, health, longevity, injury recovery, and becoming a "time billionaire." 03:15 – Interview Begins: Kevin's Best Climbing Season at Age 55 Kevin describes reaching the best climbing fitness of his life, sending multiple 5.13bs, and falling from the final move of a 5.13c. 06:12 – The Freak Accident in Mexico A foothold breaks on a warm-up route, sending Kevin into a tufa and completely tearing his distal triceps tendon from the elbow. 10:05 – Surgery, Rehabilitation and Returning to Climbing Kevin explains the cadaver tendon graft used to reconstruct his arm and his carefully graded return from 5.6 toward harder climbing. 12:03 – Climbing His First 5.13 at Age 50 After two decades as a trad climber, Kevin sets an audacious goal of climbing ten 5.13s in one year—and succeeds. 14:40 – Discovering Climbing and Becoming a Traveling Weekend Warrior Kevin recounts finding climbing in a Dallas grain-silo gym, leading his first trad route the following weekend, and eventually taking around 20 climbing trips per year. 16:36 – Walking Away From Corporate Success Despite reaching the C-suite of a multibillion-dollar company, Kevin realizes that professional and financial success have not made him happier. 21:00 – Running Toward an Irresistible Life Kevin explains why major life changes are often driven not by what we're escaping, but by something meaningful that we feel compelled to pursue. 23:15 – The "Time Billionaire" Concept A billion seconds equals roughly 30 years. Kevin explains why time—not money—is ultimately our most valuable and irreplaceable asset. 25:48 – Kevin's Training Approach After 50 Climbing outside three to five days per week, trying extremely hard, supplementing with hangboarding, and increasingly prioritizing mobility. 28:50 – Balancing Hard Projects With Pure Enjoyment Why projecting can be deeply satisfying—but not every climbing day needs to become a redpoint battle. <p data-star
- Aug 18, 202637 min
#132 - Climb Harder Through Self-Mastery: 9 Lessons for Better Training & Performance
What if the biggest thing holding back your climbing isn't finger strength, power endurance, body weight, age—or finding the perfect training program? What if the real limiter is much simpler: you're not consistently doing the things you already know you should be doing? In this new episode of the Training for Climbing Podcast, I dig into 9 powerful principles for behavior modification and self-mastery—and how they can help you train more consistently, improve your nutrition, manage your time, recover better, and become a stronger, more disciplined climber. We'll explore everything from questioning the stories you tell yourself and building an athlete identity, to embracing invisible progress, keeping promises to yourself, and making decisions based on principles rather than emotions. Because long-term success isn't about being perfectly motivated or discovering some secret training hack. It's about controlling the controllables, showing up, learning from failure, and repeatedly doing the small things that move you toward the athlete you want to become. If you want to climb harder—and become better at the game of life along the way—give this episode a listen. 🎧💪🧗 The 9 Lessons for Self-Mastery: 1. Question the story you keep telling yourself. 2. You don't have to believe everything you think. 3. Stop chasing goals—build the identity that achieves them. 4. Small behaviors compound. 5. Learn to love invisible progress. 6. Use your past as data, not identity. 7. Discipline means keeping promises to yourself. 8. Let principles make decisions before emotions arrive. 9. Control the controllables. - Three important questions for you to answer today! The big takeaway: long-term climbing success isn't built on perfect motivation or heroic workouts. It comes from repeatedly making good decisions, learning from failure, protecting your health, showing up, and gradually becoming the athlete capable of achieving your goals. Let's go! Learn more on this topic. Listen to T4C podcast #124 - Possibility Thinking: 15 Concepts That Changed My Life >> Please leave a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts or Spotify, and share this episode with a climbing partner or friend! Podcast Sponsors Thank you to La Sportiva, PhysiVantage Nutrition, DMM Climbing, Blue Water Ropes! Save 10% off a new BlueWater Rope with checkout code: ERIC_CLINIC Save on La Sportiva shoes here >> Save 15% off full-priced PhysiVantage Nutrition with code: PODCAST15 (North America only) European climbers
- Jul 21, 20261h 22m
#131: Endurance Masterclass: Training and Tactics to Beat the Pump!
Want to climb longer, recover faster, and finally stop getting pumped off your project? Then this episode is for you. In this special coaching session with Ryan Devlin, I deliver a deep-dive masterclass on rock climbing endurance training, sport climbing performance, and the science of building lasting endurance. We explore why improving endurance isn't just about surviving pumpy workouts—it's about becoming a more efficient climber by eliminating hidden energy leaks caused by overgripping, poor pacing, inefficient movement, fear, hesitation, and mental tension. You'll learn how better technique, movement economy, breathing, and confidence can dramatically improve your endurance before you ever change your fitness. Next, we dive into the physiology of climbing performance, breaking down the differences between aerobic endurance, anaerobic power endurance, and maximum strength—and why all three must be trained if you want to reach your climbing potential. I explain how to structure your training using route climbing, treadwall intervals, spray wall workouts, bouldering circuits, and submaximal volume sessions to build endurance the smart way instead of simply climbing until your forearms explode. Whether you're training for your first 5.12, projecting steep sport routes, preparing for long days at the crag, or simply looking for the most effective climbing training methods backed by exercise science and decades of coaching experience, this episode is packed with practical strategies you can apply immediately. If you're serious about becoming a stronger, more durable, and more efficient climber, this is an episode you'll want to save, revisit, and share with your climbing partners. If you love the T4C podcast, please leave a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and share this episode with a friend or climbing partner! Podcast Sponsors Thank you to La Sportiva, PhysiVantage Nutrition, DMM Climbing, Blue Water Ropes! Save 10% off a new BlueWater Rope with checkout code: ERIC_CLINIC Save on La Sportiva shoes here >> Save 15% off full-priced PhysiVantage Nutrition with code: PODCAST15 (North America only) European climbers, please get your PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV Shop or Oliunid.com. Mexican climbers visit PhysiVantage.mx Connect with Eric Hörst 📬 Training for Climbing Newsletter<br data-start="3898" data-end="3
- Jun 9, 202657 min
#130 - PRO TIPS: Cameron Horst's Training Secrets Behind a 5.15a Send
Cameron Hörst recently completed the hardest route of his climbing career: Big Bone (5.15a/9a+), a king line out Utah's massive Fynn Cave. What makes his first ascent especially compelling isn't just the grade—it's the journey. Big Bone was a project that demanded years of training, 60+ working goes and redpoint attempts, countless setbacks, and a level of patience few climbers ever develop. In this episode of the Training for Climbing Podcast, Cameron unpacks the entire process. We dive into the physical, mental, and tactical challenges of working a multi-year project, the breakthroughs that finally moved the needle, and the lessons any climber can apply to their own long-term goals—whether you're projecting 5.10 or 5.15. One of the most fascinating takeaways is that the breakthrough wasn't a sudden gain in finger strength or power. Instead, it came from years of accumulated training adaptations, comprehensive energy system development, improved recovery, refined tactics, and learning when not to climb. Cameron shares how he finally broke through a plateau that had stalled his progress for multiple seasons. RUNDOWN 2:00 – What Does It Feel Like to Send a Multi-Year Project? 5:00 – Inside Utah's Incredible Fin Cave 7:00 – Anatomy of the "Big Bone" Project 9:50 – Why the Route is So Difficult 12:00 – Cameron's Three-Year Journey on the Route 13:50 – Breaking Through a Plateau 16:40 – Training Lessons from Big Bone 18:00 – Recovery: The Secret Weapon 21:00 – Sending on the Second Try 24:10 - Energy System Training and the benefits of becoming more fat adapted 26:00 – Mental Growth and Performance Psychology 28:30 - Discovery of Fin Cave 31:30 – The Evolution of "Bone Tomahawk" and "Big Bone" 32:00 – Friendship and Mentorship with Joe Kinder 34:20 – Balancing University, Life, and Elite Climbing 40:00 – The Importance of Partners and Community 44:00 - Debating 5.15a versus 5.15b -- how to grade a hard FA? 47:30 - Ultimately, the grade isn't important -- the journey is what counts! 48:10 – Coaching, Exercise Science, and Helping Others Follow and contact Cameron on Instagram @cam_horst Visit Cam's website at: www.CameronHorst.com 49:28 – What's Next? 51:05 – Eric's summarizes 8 Key Tips and Takeaways from this interview. 54:30 - Sponsor Discount: Save 15% off full-priced PhysiVantage Nutrition with code: PODCAST15 (North America only) 56:00 -⭐ Enjoy the podcast? Leave a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and share this episode with a climbing partner! 56:40 - Hörst Out! Podcast Sponsors Thank you to La Sportiva, PhysiVantage Nutrition, DMM Climbing, <a href= "https://www.bluewaterropes.com/product-category/recreational/" target="_b
- May 17, 202634 min
#129 WEEKEND CRUSHER: From Florida to 5.13d - The Jessica Jenkins Story
In this inspiring new "Weekend Crushers" feature, I sit down with Florida-based climber Jessica Jenkins to unpack her incredible journey from a teenager climbing plastic in Orlando to recently sending her hardest route ever: the iconic Red River Gorge testpiece Swingline (5.13d). Her story is far more than a tale of grades and performance—it's a masterclass in resilience, adaptability, patience, and building a life that supports your passion even when circumstances aren't ideal. Whether you live far from outdoor climbing, struggle to balance work and family with training, or simply need a reminder that long-term consistency still wins, I think you'll find Jessica's story deeply motivating. Her journey proves that you don't need perfect circumstances to pursue extraordinary goals—you just need commitment, structure, and the willingness to keep showing up. Key Inspirational Takeaways for Climbers Living Far from Rock 1. Your location does not define your potential. Jessica proves that you do not need to live in Boulder, Salt Lake, or Chattanooga to become a high-level climber. Smart training, consistency, and strategic travel can close much of the gap. 2. Training with intention matters more than perfect access. Because she can't climb outdoors weekly, Jessica trains with incredible specificity—adjusting board angles, targeting pocket strength for Wyoming trips, and using power-endurance circuits to prepare for the Red River Gorge. 3. Passion fuels discipline. Long drives, limited outdoor mileage, inconsistent weather, and balancing work obligations would discourage many climbers. But Jessica's love for climbing continues to drive her effort year after year. 4. Progress is rarely linear. Even highly prepared climbers experience setbacks, regressions, injuries, and emotional struggles. Near-sends and failures are often part of the process—not signs that the goal is impossible. 5. Build a life that supports your passion. Jessica intentionally shaped her career and lifestyle around climbing freedom. Rather than waiting for ideal circumstances, she created systems that allowed climbing to remain central in her life. 6. Long-term consistency beats short-term intensity. Jessica's breakthrough wasn't the result of one magical training cycle. It was built over 16 years of climbing, coaching, learning, traveling, and steadily improving. 7. Community matters. The interview highlights how supportive partners, climbing friends, coaches, and mentors can make a huge difference—especially for climbers who live far from outdoor destinations. ⭐ Enjoy the podcast? Leave a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and share this episode with a climbing partner! Podcast Sponsors Thank you to La Sportiva, PhysiVantage Nutrition, DMM Climbing, Blue Water Ropes! Save 10% off a new BlueWater Rope with checkout code: ERIC_CLINIC Save on <a href= "https://www.avantlink.com/click.php?tt=c
- Apr 28, 202657 min
#128 - CRUSHERS: 5.14c at Age 45 - The Aaron Shamy Comeback Story
In this inaugural Weekend Crushers episode of the T4C podcast, Eric Hörst sits down with Aaron Shamy—an inspiring example of what's possible when passion, persistence, and smart training intersect with real life. Aaron's journey spans elite youth climbing in the 1990s, a 15+ year hiatus, and a remarkable comeback culminating in a 5.14c redpoint at age 45. This is more than a comeback story—it's a masterclass in long-term progression. Aaron shares practical training insights, mindset strategies, and real-world tactics that apply to middle-aged climbers and weekend warriors of any age. Here are a few key takeaways from this episode: Long-term consistency beats short-term intensity You can come back stronger—even after years (or decades) away Progress isn't linear—trust that small gains will accumulate and compound Build a system that fits your life, so that you an excel in all the important areas Strength-to-weight matters—but proper fueling matters more Community enhances both performance and enjoyment Climbing longevity is real—with the right mindset and approach I'm confident you'll find this episode both highly informative and deeply inspiring. ⏱️ Key Points & Timestamps 0:15 – Intro & Series Launch 4:05 – Aaron Shamy backstory 7:45 – Life Happens: Family & Hiatus 12:45 – The Comeback Begins (age 38) 15:05 – Rebuilding from Scratch 26:00 – "Flight of the Conchords" Project and the Pyramid Strategy 33:00 – The Days, Weeks, Months Projecting "Flight"... 36:00 – Training and Non-Linear Progress 38:30 – Nutrition & Weight Loss Transformation 44:00 – Aaron's 3 Keys to Success 46:10 – Community & Support System 48:20 – What's Next? 54:15 - Final Takeaways & Key Points ⭐ Enjoy the podcast? Leave a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and share this episode with a climbing partner! Podcast Sponsors Thank you to La Sportiva, PhysiVantage Nutrition, DMM Climbing, Blue Water Ropes! Save 10% off a new BlueWater Rope with checkout code: ERIC_CLINIC Save on La Sportiva shoes here >> Save 15% off full-priced <a title="save on PhysiVantage Nutrition" href= "https://www.physivantage.com/pages/7-ways-physivantage-can-elevate-your-training-climbing
- Apr 7, 202635 min
#127 - Turning Gym Gains to Real Rock Performance: Bridging the Gap
After a winter of disciplined training, stronger fingers, improved fitness, and high motivation, most climbers head outdoors expecting breakthrough performances. But the reality often hits hard—routes feel awkward, sequencing is unclear, your mind spirals with fear, and the pump sets in faster than expected. In this episode, Eric Hörst breaks down the critical gap between gym strength and outdoor performance—and why even your best training cycle doesn't guarantee immediate success on real rock. The truth is simple but often overlooked: Climbing outdoors is a far more complex, nuanced, and mentally demanding game than climbing indoors. Eric introduces a powerful framework for understanding this transition and delivers five actionable strategies to help you quickly regain movement efficiency, sharpen your mental game, and unlock your true performance potential outside. If you want to turn your winter training gains into real sends this season, this is a must-listen episode. ⏱️ Key Points & Timestamps [0:15] Intro + The Spring Reality Check [2:20] The Big Truth: Strength ≠ Performance (Yet) [4:00] Gym vs. Outdoor Climbing—Critical Differences [7:40] The Real Limiter: Inefficiency Podcast Sponsors Thank you to La Sportiva, DMM Climbing, Blue Water Ropes! Save 15% off full-price PhysiVantage Nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 at PhysiVantage.com (USA and Canada only). European climbers, please get your PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV Shop or Oliunid.com. Mexican climbers visit PhysiVantage.mx 🔑 Gym to Crag Transition Strategies [12:30] Strategy #1: Treat Early Sessions as Pre-Season [15:05] Strategy #2: Prioritize Volume Over Difficulty [17:00] Strategy #3: Reframe Projecting Early Season [20:45] Strategy #4: Rebuild Technical & Mental Skills [25:28] Strategy #5: Be Patient—Trust the Process ⚠️ Important Considerations [28:20] Injury Risk During Transition 🧠 Wrap-Up [32:30] Final Takeaways Efficiency is the gateway to performance Build volume, refine movement, stay patient <li data-section-id="1qh5kos" data-start="2205" data-en
- Mar 10, 202620 min
#126 - 15 Quick (Powerful) Tips to Climb Your Best This Season!
Spring climbing season is here—and it's time to translate all those winter training gains into real performance on the rock. In this episode, Eric Hörst shares 15 practical mindset and strategy tips to help you climb your best this season. While physical strength matters, experienced climbers know that mindset, decision-making, strategy, and emotional resilience often determine whether you send or fall short. These quick but powerful ideas will help you approach training, projecting, and performance with greater clarity and purpose. Apply even a few of these insights consistently, and you may find yourself climbing with more confidence, better focus, and improved results this season. Brief Podcast Sponsor message from PhysiVantage Nutrition. Save 15% off full-price nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 at PhysiVantage.com (USA and Canada only). European climbers, please get your PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV Shop or Oliunid.com. Mexican climbers visit PhysiVantage.mx Key Takeaways from This Episode 1. Separate Outcomes from Identity Results are feedback—not a judgment of your worth. Treat success and failure like a scientist treats data: information that helps guide your next attempt. 2. Care Deeply, But Stay Detached Commit fully to preparation and effort, but let go of rigid expectations. Peak performance happens when you care—but remain mentally loose. 3. Widen Your Perspective Fear narrows perception. When frustration or anxiety creeps in, step back and consider the bigger picture of your climbing journey. 4. Recognize Self-Sabotage Many self-defeating behaviors stem from fear of failure. Notice the pattern and commit fully—remove the escape routes. 5. Design Your Environment Your surroundings influence behavior more than willpower. Set up your environment so good choices become automatic. 6. Build Confidence with Evidence Confidence comes from past effort and experience. Remember the training sessions, challenges, and setbacks you've already overcome. 7. Stay Calm Under Pressure True toughness is the ability to make clear decisions when stress rises. Pause, breathe, and choose the next smart action. 8. Align Effort with Purpose Grinding through pain isn't always productive. Growth comes from intentional stress followed by proper recovery. 9. Pursue Mastery, Not Just Metrics Grades and performance numbers are useful indicators—but mastery of movement, skill, and understanding is the real long-term goal. 10. Break Plateaus with Novelty When progress stalls, change something. Train in a new place, climb with new partners, or modify your routine to spark fresh momentum. 11. Choose Tradeoffs Intentionally You can't do everything at once. Decide what matters most this season and accept the tradeoffs required to pursue it. 12. Consistency Beats Intensity Big breakthroughs
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About Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
Training and performance podcasts by Eric Hörst, the internationally renowned author, researcher, climbing coach, and climber of 40 years. Monthly podcasts detail the latest training techniques to improve strength, power, endurance, as well as mental and technical skills. With his unique combination of veteran experience and knowledge of the cutting-edge research, Eric presents practical, effective guidelines to climb harder, reduce injury risk, and maximize the experience of moving over stone. Eric is one of the world's most knowledgeable climbing coaches and his eight books (and many foreign translations) have sold more than 300,000 copies worldwide. His latest book release is the 3rd edition of Training For Climbing.
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