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Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast: Daily Summaries Delivered
by Eric J. Hörst
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- 2 days ago34 min
#129 WEEKEND CRUSHER: From Florida to 5.13d - The Jessica Jenkins Story
In this inspiring new "Weekend Crushers" feature, I sit down with Florida-based climber Jessica Jenkins to unpack her incredible journey from a teenager climbing plastic in Orlando to recently sending her hardest route ever: the iconic Red River Gorge testpiece Swingline (5.13d). Her story is far more than a tale of grades and performance—it's a masterclass in resilience, adaptability, patience, and building a life that supports your passion even when circumstances aren't ideal. Whether you live far from outdoor climbing, struggle to balance work and family with training, or simply need a reminder that long-term consistency still wins, I think you'll find Jessica's story deeply motivating. Her journey proves that you don't need perfect circumstances to pursue extraordinary goals—you just need commitment, structure, and the willingness to keep showing up. Key Inspirational Takeaways for Climbers Living Far from Rock 1. Your location does not define your potential. Jessica proves that you do not need to live in Boulder, Salt Lake, or Chattanooga to become a high-level climber. Smart training, consistency, and strategic travel can close much of the gap. 2. Training with intention matters more than perfect access. Because she can't climb outdoors weekly, Jessica trains with incredible specificity—adjusting board angles, targeting pocket strength for Wyoming trips, and using power-endurance circuits to prepare for the Red River Gorge. 3. Passion fuels discipline. Long drives, limited outdoor mileage, inconsistent weather, and balancing work obligations would discourage many climbers. But Jessica's love for climbing continues to drive her effort year after year. 4. Progress is rarely linear. Even highly prepared climbers experience setbacks, regressions, injuries, and emotional struggles. Near-sends and failures are often part of the process—not signs that the goal is impossible. 5. Build a life that supports your passion. Jessica intentionally shaped her career and lifestyle around climbing freedom. Rather than waiting for ideal circumstances, she created systems that allowed climbing to remain central in her life. 6. Long-term consistency beats short-term intensity. Jessica's breakthrough wasn't the result of one magical training cycle. It was built over 16 years of climbing, coaching, learning, traveling, and steadily improving. 7. Community matters. The interview highlights how supportive partners, climbing friends, coaches, and mentors can make a huge difference—especially for climbers who live far from outdoor destinations. ⭐ Enjoy the podcast? Leave a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and share this episode with a climbing partner! Podcast Sponsors Thank you to La Sportiva, PhysiVantage Nutrition, DMM Climbing, Blue Water Ropes! Save 10% off a new BlueWater Rope with checkout code: ERIC_CLINIC Save on <a href= "https://www.avantlink.com/click.php?tt=c
- 3 weeks ago57 min
#128 - CRUSHERS: 5.14c at Age 45 - The Aaron Shamy Comeback Story
In this inaugural Weekend Crushers episode of the T4C podcast, Eric Hörst sits down with Aaron Shamy—an inspiring example of what's possible when passion, persistence, and smart training intersect with real life. Aaron's journey spans elite youth climbing in the 1990s, a 15+ year hiatus, and a remarkable comeback culminating in a 5.14c redpoint at age 45. This is more than a comeback story—it's a masterclass in long-term progression. Aaron shares practical training insights, mindset strategies, and real-world tactics that apply to middle-aged climbers and weekend warriors of any age. Here are a few key takeaways from this episode: Long-term consistency beats short-term intensity You can come back stronger—even after years (or decades) away Progress isn't linear—trust that small gains will accumulate and compound Build a system that fits your life, so that you an excel in all the important areas Strength-to-weight matters—but proper fueling matters more Community enhances both performance and enjoyment Climbing longevity is real—with the right mindset and approach I'm confident you'll find this episode both highly informative and deeply inspiring. ⏱️ Key Points & Timestamps 0:15 – Intro & Series Launch 4:05 – Aaron Shamy backstory 7:45 – Life Happens: Family & Hiatus 12:45 – The Comeback Begins (age 38) 15:05 – Rebuilding from Scratch 26:00 – "Flight of the Conchords" Project and the Pyramid Strategy 33:00 – The Days, Weeks, Months Projecting "Flight"... 36:00 – Training and Non-Linear Progress 38:30 – Nutrition & Weight Loss Transformation 44:00 – Aaron's 3 Keys to Success 46:10 – Community & Support System 48:20 – What's Next? 54:15 - Final Takeaways & Key Points ⭐ Enjoy the podcast? Leave a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and share this episode with a climbing partner! Podcast Sponsors Thank you to La Sportiva, PhysiVantage Nutrition, DMM Climbing, Blue Water Ropes! Save 10% off a new BlueWater Rope with checkout code: ERIC_CLINIC Save on La Sportiva shoes here >> Save 15% off full-priced <a title="save on PhysiVantage Nutrition" href= "https://www.physivantage.com/pages/7-ways-physivantage-can-elevate-your-training-climbing
- Apr 7, 202635 min
#127 - Turning Gym Gains to Real Rock Performance: Bridging the Gap
After a winter of disciplined training, stronger fingers, improved fitness, and high motivation, most climbers head outdoors expecting breakthrough performances. But the reality often hits hard—routes feel awkward, sequencing is unclear, your mind spirals with fear, and the pump sets in faster than expected. In this episode, Eric Hörst breaks down the critical gap between gym strength and outdoor performance—and why even your best training cycle doesn't guarantee immediate success on real rock. The truth is simple but often overlooked: Climbing outdoors is a far more complex, nuanced, and mentally demanding game than climbing indoors. Eric introduces a powerful framework for understanding this transition and delivers five actionable strategies to help you quickly regain movement efficiency, sharpen your mental game, and unlock your true performance potential outside. If you want to turn your winter training gains into real sends this season, this is a must-listen episode. ⏱️ Key Points & Timestamps [0:15] Intro + The Spring Reality Check [2:20] The Big Truth: Strength ≠ Performance (Yet) [4:00] Gym vs. Outdoor Climbing—Critical Differences [7:40] The Real Limiter: Inefficiency Podcast Sponsors Thank you to La Sportiva, DMM Climbing, Blue Water Ropes! Save 15% off full-price PhysiVantage Nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 at PhysiVantage.com (USA and Canada only). European climbers, please get your PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV Shop or Oliunid.com. Mexican climbers visit PhysiVantage.mx 🔑 Gym to Crag Transition Strategies [12:30] Strategy #1: Treat Early Sessions as Pre-Season [15:05] Strategy #2: Prioritize Volume Over Difficulty [17:00] Strategy #3: Reframe Projecting Early Season [20:45] Strategy #4: Rebuild Technical & Mental Skills [25:28] Strategy #5: Be Patient—Trust the Process ⚠️ Important Considerations [28:20] Injury Risk During Transition 🧠 Wrap-Up [32:30] Final Takeaways Efficiency is the gateway to performance Build volume, refine movement, stay patient <li data-section-id="1qh5kos" data-start="2205" data-en
- Mar 10, 202620 min
#126 - 15 Quick (Powerful) Tips to Climb Your Best This Season!
Spring climbing season is here—and it's time to translate all those winter training gains into real performance on the rock. In this episode, Eric Hörst shares 15 practical mindset and strategy tips to help you climb your best this season. While physical strength matters, experienced climbers know that mindset, decision-making, strategy, and emotional resilience often determine whether you send or fall short. These quick but powerful ideas will help you approach training, projecting, and performance with greater clarity and purpose. Apply even a few of these insights consistently, and you may find yourself climbing with more confidence, better focus, and improved results this season. Brief Podcast Sponsor message from PhysiVantage Nutrition. Save 15% off full-price nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 at PhysiVantage.com (USA and Canada only). European climbers, please get your PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV Shop or Oliunid.com. Mexican climbers visit PhysiVantage.mx Key Takeaways from This Episode 1. Separate Outcomes from Identity Results are feedback—not a judgment of your worth. Treat success and failure like a scientist treats data: information that helps guide your next attempt. 2. Care Deeply, But Stay Detached Commit fully to preparation and effort, but let go of rigid expectations. Peak performance happens when you care—but remain mentally loose. 3. Widen Your Perspective Fear narrows perception. When frustration or anxiety creeps in, step back and consider the bigger picture of your climbing journey. 4. Recognize Self-Sabotage Many self-defeating behaviors stem from fear of failure. Notice the pattern and commit fully—remove the escape routes. 5. Design Your Environment Your surroundings influence behavior more than willpower. Set up your environment so good choices become automatic. 6. Build Confidence with Evidence Confidence comes from past effort and experience. Remember the training sessions, challenges, and setbacks you've already overcome. 7. Stay Calm Under Pressure True toughness is the ability to make clear decisions when stress rises. Pause, breathe, and choose the next smart action. 8. Align Effort with Purpose Grinding through pain isn't always productive. Growth comes from intentional stress followed by proper recovery. 9. Pursue Mastery, Not Just Metrics Grades and performance numbers are useful indicators—but mastery of movement, skill, and understanding is the real long-term goal. 10. Break Plateaus with Novelty When progress stalls, change something. Train in a new place, climb with new partners, or modify your routine to spark fresh momentum. 11. Choose Tradeoffs Intentionally You can't do everything at once. Decide what matters most this season and accept the tradeoffs required to pursue it. 12. Consistency Beats Intensity Big breakthroughs
- Feb 5, 202651 min
#125 - EXPERT: The Great Nutrition Reset - Unlocking the New Real Food Pyramid
In this episode, Eric Hörst and nutrition science graduate student Jonathan Hörst discuss the newly updated U.S. dietary guidance and the concept of a "flipped" or re-prioritized food pyramid that emphasizes nutrient density, whole foods, and protein—rather than carbohydrate-heavy intake patterns of past guidelines. Drawing from current nutrition science and academic discussion at the University of Utah, they explore both the strengths of the update and the practical challenges of applying it. Key takeaways for climbers and athletes include prioritizing adequate protein, limiting ultra-processed foods, choosing whole-food carbohydrate sources, and matching carbohydrate intake to activity level. The episode concludes by emphasizing individualized nutrition, performance context, and consistency over perfection. Jonathan also provides some breakfast and dinner tips for climbers looking to optimize energy availability, performance, and recovery. RUNDOWN 0:30 - Intro to New Food Pyramid 1:00 - About today's expert, Jonathan Hörst, from Department of Nutritional Science at the University of Utah. 2:20 - Seismic changes to the USDA food guideline for Americans 6:00 - Guidelines catching up to modern nutritional science 9:35 - Inverting the old food pyramid 11:40 - 6 major changes to the nutritional guidelines for health and disease prevention 12:00 - #1 Prioritize protein 16:15 - #2: Added Sugar Gets a Hard Line 19:15 - #3: Whole Grains Yes — Refined Carbs No Brief Podcast Sponsor message from PhysiVantage Nutrition. Save 15% off full-price nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 at PhysiVantage.com (USA and Canada only). European climbers, please get your PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV Shop or Oliunid.com. Mexican climbers visit PhysiVantage.mx 21:35 - #4: Lower-Carbohydrate Diets Are Acknowledged 25:35 - #5: Ultra-Processed Foods Are Explicitly Called Out 31:50 - #6: A More Nuanced Approach to Fat Intake 37:30 - Key takeaways & actionable items for climbers 40:00 - Examples of healthy, effective fueling at breakfast and dinner 47:00 - Jonathan's current training and climbing goals 49:40 - Contact Jonathan vis DM on Instagram: @jonathan_horst 49:55 - PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! 50:30 - Hörst out! A word from this podcast's sponsor, PhysiVantage. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >></sp
- Jan 6, 202642 min
#124 - 15 Concepts That Changed My Life
If there's one podcast you listen to this week, I hope it's this one! I'm genuinely proud of this episode, as it distills some of the most powerful concepts I've learned, refined, and applied over the past 30 years. I believe you'll find it thought-provoking and impactful—and for some listeners, it may even prove life-changing. To mark the new year, I've intentionally broadened the scope of this episode beyond climbing-specific training...to explore human performance, mindset, values, and intentional living. For this month, think of it as a true training for life podcast. At the heart of the episode is a simple but important idea: most people live far below their true potential—not because of a lack of ability, but because of unexamined habits, limiting beliefs, fear, distraction, and cultural groupthink. Reclaiming personal power, I believe, begins with conscious control of your thoughts, decisions, values, and daily actions. Drawing on decades of study, coaching, self-experimentation, and reflection, I present a set of 15 principles designed to lift you above mediocrity and support sustained progress toward meaningful goals. These concepts aren't quick fixes—they're daily disciplines that compound over time. When applied consistently, they elevate core life habits and mental frameworks, and ultimately feed back into better climbing performance, improved health, and deeper fulfillment. A recurring theme throughout the episode is agency: you are largely self-made, your future is mostly under your control, and lasting change begins with intentional action taken today—not someday. RUNDOWN 0:15 - New Year's greeting!? 0:45 - Are you reset for a "reset" and course correction with your life? 1:12 - Value-based goal setting. 3:54 - Overview of human performance -- YOU, dear listener, are far more powerful than you can possibly imagine! 11:15 - Brief Podcast Sponsor message from PhysiVantage Nutrition. Save 15% off full-price nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 at PhysiVantage.com (USA and Canada only). International climbers, please get your PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV Shop >> 13:17 - 15 concepts and strategies for Uncommon Success and Happiness. I called them my "Mental Wings." 15:23 - #1: Your quality of life is directly related to the quality of your thoughts 17:05 - #2: Human beings are the embodiment of unused potential. 17:52 - #3: To outperform the masses, you must do things they don't do. 20:02 - #4: Clarity of values and goals, and a clear purpose for living form the foundation for a life full of rich, transcending experiences. 21:02 - #5: Risk is a precursor to reward. 22:07 - #6: Almost anything is possible once you conquer fear. 25:05 - #7: Singular focus and indomitable persistence knows no limits. 26:20 - #8: Obstacles and adversity make you stronger. 27:50 - #9: A fit body potentiates a fit mind. 29:14 - #10: Life is subtle—sweat the small stuff! 32:40 - #11: <span sty
- Dec 15, 202532 min
#123 - Effective Training - Part 2 - Applying a Systems Approach to Program Design
In this second installment of a two-part series, Coach Eric Hörst takes the high-level systems philosophy introduced in Episode #122 and brings it down to earth with practical, actionable guidance. This episode walks listeners through the nine elements of an intelligent training system and illustrates how each one applies directly to climbing preparation and long-term improvement. Eric emphasizes that as climbers progress beyond the beginner stage, climbing and training grow increasingly complex—requiring intentional, organized, and year-round development of strength, technique, mental skills, recovery habits, nutrition, and lifestyle management. Rather than ad-lib sessions or singular-focus programs (like only training strength), climbers need a comprehensive system fine-tuned daily and seasonally. The episode explains how to evaluate your training "inputs," recognize both positive and negative "outputs," manage disturbances, and use ongoing feedback (sensors) to modulate your training wisely. Eric underscores that self-awareness, discipline, and responsiveness—not just effort—drive long-term progress. He makes the case that thoughtful systems dramatically improve performance, reduce injury risk, and provide clarity amidst the complexities of climbing life. The episode concludes with guidance on setting meaningful long- and short-term goals, adjusting training loads with intention, eliminating counterproductive habits, and being vigilant about the subtle disturbances that erode progress over time. Ultimately, Eric encourages every committed climber to craft a personalized system—one aligned to their goals, life structure, recovery needs, and unique path in the sport. RUNDOWN 0:15 – Eric's welcome 0:30 - Recap of Part 1 - Episode #122. If you haven't already, please listen to Part 1 now >> 2:20 - 9 elements of a Systems applied to training for climbing. 7:00 – Some climbing-specific examples of employing an intelligent system approach to training. Examples of how each system element relates to daily training activities and mission pursuit. 11:55 - You have two choices... 12:40 – Tips for applying a systems approach to your training and non-training activities 15:00 – Importance of having a mega-goal. What's your BHAG? You also need a series of short-term goals to make your journey more rich and enjoyable…and to help maintain motivation and a sense of progress. 17:50 – Importance of consciously selecting your INPUTs—training, rest, food, things you do to support recovery, etc. 22:30 – SENSOR…your subjective sense of movement quality and fatigue while climbing and training; but also via objective measures...such as tracking of metrics of fitness (grip strength, bodyweight, etc.) 25:05 – The power of DISTURBANCES to covertly sabotage your training and knock you off course from your goals. Strive to anticipate, avoid, or quickly course-correct. 28:00 – Most important: Be proactive and fully engaged in the process of training, climbing, and living. Don't be an NPC! 29:30 – Wrap-up & Eric's 50% Challenge. 🎧 Support Podcast Sponsor: PhysiVantage Nutrition's Premium Proteins Boost your strength gains, recovery, connective tissue health, and immune system with PhysiVantage proteins: Supercharged Collagen, Weapons-Grade Whey Complex, and plant-based Powerplex. Save 15% with checkout code: PODCAST15 at PhysiVantage.com PhysiVantage is available in Europe from the EPIC-TV Shop and in Mexico from PhysiVantage.mx SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: <a href= "https://www.avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-7688151
- Dec 9, 202545 min
#122 - Train More Effectively: The Systems Approach That Will Transform Your Climbing
This episode is the first in a two-part deep dive into designing a comprehensive, long-term systems approach to training. Coach Eric Hörst unpacks—in rich detail—how systems actually function, and he highlights how transformative climbers throughout history "shake up the box" with innovative, highly effective methods to achieve big goals and push the boundaries of our sport. Eric blends a concise climbing history lesson with an engineer-like breakdown of how intelligent systems operate. Part 2 of this series will deliver the actionable strategies you can use to build a personalized, high-performance training system for this winter…and for many seasons to come. This is an entertaining and thought-provoking episode—so lean in, listen closely, and get ready to feel inspired, challenged, and equipped to level-up your modus operandi at the crag, in the gym, at home, and in everything you do! RUNDOWN 0:15 – Eric's welcome 1:45 - Are you ready for "training season?" 3:15 - The powerful force of the compounding effect of year-over-year gains in strength and climbing ability! 🎧 Podcast Sponsors: La Sportiva | DMM | Friction Labs | PhysiVantage -- Amplify your training and climb your best with PhysiVantage Nutrition for climbers. Save 15% off full-price nutrition at PhysiVantage.com with checkout code: PODCAST15 6:00 – Learning to climb is simple; learning how to train effectively is complex! 10:50 – Employing a "systems" approach to your training and goal pursuit. 13:10 – The value of waking each morning with a mission. 18:55 – Eric shares some climbing history…and names 5 legendary, transformative climbers that influenced him and helped inspire this systems approach to training/climbing. 20:30 - #1 Warren Harding…applied a mission approach to big wall climbing…and took commitment and suffering to a new level. 22:35 - #2 John Gill – The father of modern bouldering and training for climbing. Read his biography, Masters of Rock (by Pat Ament). Gill was climbing V9 (in hiking boots) in 1959! 24:30 - #3 Wolfgang Gullich – Applied a systems approach to training and hard climbing…and opened up the world's first 5.14a, 5.14b, and 5.14d. Wolfgang helped invent the campus board, a climbing-specific form of plyometric training. 26:20 - #4 Todd Skinner – A pioneer of big wall free climbing, hard bouldering, and limit sport climbing, Todd employed a mission approach to climbing on a massive "all-in" and multi-year scale. 27:45 - #5 Lynn Hill – First female 5.14 ascent, World Cup Champion, and Free Ascent of The Nose of El Cap (1994). Lynn, like the other four legendary climbers, employed a systems approach to her climbing life. 30:00 – Two more important influences: my parents, Bob and Ethel Horst. My father, an engineer and inventor, helped shape my innate sense of needing to employ a systems approach to training/climbing. 31:05 – Side note about Jim Collins, a leading climber in the early1980s -- later a best-selling author and business consultant, Jim described my mega-goal concept as a "BHAG". Big Audacious Hairy Goal! 32:25– Conceptual model of a "System". 32:40 - Five elements of an open system: 1. Input, 2. Output, 3, Structure, 4. Transport, 5. Conversion. 35:30 – Making a system into an "Intelligent System" with four additional elements: 6. Goal, 7. Sensor, 8. Controller, 9. Disturbance. 41:55 – Applying an Intelligent System approach to your training and goal pursuit. If you're an advanced or elite climber, then employing a highly personalized system approach to training is essential for pursuing your genetic potential…and mega goals! 45:00 - Wrap up of Part 1 and a teaser for Part 2 coming in T4C Podcast #123! <a href="https://www.facebook.com/Traini
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About Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
Training and performance podcasts by Eric Hörst, the internationally renowned author, researcher, climbing coach, and climber of 40 years. Monthly podcasts detail the latest training techniques to improve strength, power, endurance, as well as mental and technical skills. With his unique combination of veteran experience and knowledge of the cutting-edge research, Eric presents practical, effective guidelines to climb harder, reduce injury risk, and maximize the experience of moving over stone.Eric is one of the world's most knowledge climbing coaches and his eight books (and many foreign translations) have sold more than 300,000 copies worldwide. His latest book release is the 3rd edition of Training For Climbing. Learn more at: http://www.trainingforclimbing.com
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