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by Unpolished
The companion podcast to Unpolished, the newsletter for watch collectors. Follow along for regular chats with collectors and enthusiasts.
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Subscribe: https://unpolishedwatches.com/In December 2025, a surprising watch went viral. It wasn’t from Switzerland, Japan, or any of the traditional watchmaking hubs.It was from India and cost about $42. The brand did no marketing, and it sold out more than 5,000 pieces in just 2 minutes.Maybe you’ve seen the Delhi Watch Company Terra. It’s a unique take on a field watch: monobloc titanium case, a case design inspired by a climbing carabiner, and with a parachute-style strap.Released for DWC’s 5th anniversary, it surprised everyone, and I wanted to get the story behind the Terra. So I reached out to Delhi Watch Company’s founder Anish Dandwani and designer Ishaan Vajpai, the duo behind the Terra. We talk about the Terra, but also a lot more—what’s it like to go viral, how watchmaking is developing in India, what makes it different, and what’s next.This episode is also on YouTube here—the guys share their screen a couple of times to show renders of what they’re working on, so check it out there if you want the full look.Unpolished is a collector-supported newsletter about watches. Join for free or support with a paid subscription. Subscribers get 2 newsletters/week, a 10% discount on all orders from the Unpolished store, $50 off a watch service, community perks, and much more.* Podcast episodes are published on Fridays. Listen here, and subscribe to get future episodes in your feed: Spotify / Apple / RSS* Unpolished is the newsletter for collectors. Join for free or become a paid subscriber for $8/mo or $80/year: unpolishedwatches.comShow Notes* Delhi Watch Company* DWC Terra* Ishaah Vajpai on Instagram* Vincent’s early hands-on review of the Terra, Mainspring Magazine* Inside Titan Watches, Hodinkee* Sebastian Watch Co., artisanal dials made in India* Quest Precision on Instagramshop.unpolishedwatches.com: Shop Unpolished straps, including the new Textured Taupe, made of durable, versatile Epsom leather. Available in 18-20mm: This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit www.unpolishedwatches.com/subscribe
Jeff Stein is a collector, researcher, scholar, retired lawyer from Atlanta, and the proprietor of On the Dash, the resource for all things Heuer. Since 2003, he’s meticulously documented nearly 600 watches there. In 2016, he was featured in a Talking Watches episode on Hodinkee. Ten years later, he still owns slightly more than half of the 50 or 60 Heuers that were on his kitchen table while filming that episode. Jeff registered on eBay in 1998 and he’s been collecting watches ever since. We talk about his “checklist era” of collecting and upgrading his collection; the personal Heuer grails he’s chasing that no one else is; why community grails like Chronomatics and Seafarers are strong while so many other vintage tool watches have gone soft; an assessment of Heuer collecting over the last few years; what he’d buy if he had $5,000 or $10,000; the TAG Heuer divers that kept the company alive; the $500 S/eL his daughter wears; the Breguet, Audemars Piguet, Piaget, Sinn, and other watches that Jeff also enjoys.We close with some advice: Know when to sell your watches. “The only way I could have never sold a watch might be if I’d never made a mistake in buying a watch,” Jeff says. Thanks to Jeff for joining the Unpolished Watches Podcast. * Podcast episodes are published on Fridays. Listen here, and subscribe to get future episodes in your feed: Spotify / Apple / RSS. * Unpolished is the newsletter for collectors. Join for free or become a paid subscriber for $8/mo or $80/year: unpolishedwatches.comShow Notes* OntheDash.com; Jeff on Instagram* Jeff Stein’s Talking Watches from 2016* Absolutely Everything About the Heuer Autavia “Viceroy” Chronograph, On the Dash* Guide to TAG Heuer Dive Watches, On the Dash* Berneron Mirage at LoupeThis* New TAG Heuer Monza Flyback, On the Dash* Sinn EZM1, UnpolishedUnpolished Store: shop.unpolishedwatches.com to shop our collection of Canvas and leather straps. Everything has been restocked for the fall. * Pick up a 3 Canvas Strap Bundle for $175, a 10% off the single-strap price ($157 member price!)* Shop the new Textured Taupe, made of high-quality Epsom leather. This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit www.unpolishedwatches.com/subscribe
It’s almost the end of summer. Before we head back to school and a few of you lucky folks head to Geneva Watch Days, I decided it was time for a Mid-Year Awards Show. I called up Andy Green and Felix Scholz of the O.T. Podcast to talk about the releases we’ve seen so far in 2026.We start by discussing trends: The rise of “economy gold,” the second generation of microbrands, outer space is back in a big way, and our most worn watches of the year.Then, we give out some fun awards: Best Watch Under $2,000; the Discourse Award, for generating the most posts per unit of watch actually produced; the Beige Award for most boring release; Best Release of the Year (overall); Most Likely to be a Grail in 20 Years; and the ‘Big Dog’ Award. We also talk plenty about Chanel Blue and the Best Blue Award, craft, value, and if it’s okay to take five years to “develop” a color. Unpolished is a newsletter for collectors and a top-20 Fashion Substack. Join for free or become a member for $8/mo ($80/year):What will be a grail in 2046?We closed the episode with a question that turned out to be two questions. I asked Felix and Andy to name the watch from 2026 they think will be a grail twenty years from now, and they immediately answered different prompts.Felix went predictive: His pick was the Jubilee motif Oyster Perpetual, and his reasoning had nothing to do with whether he wants one. It’s about how the catalog will read in 2046: Rolex made a weird dial for a single year, 20 years ago, and then never again. It’s the kind of thing collectors love. Andy went personal: The watch he still expects to want in 20 years, the Chopard L.U.C 1860 Areuse Blue. It’s not that the latest L.U.C will be breaking auction records in 20 years, he just likes it. We talk about the new Alpine Eagle XPS “Mountain Glow,” but Andy’s pick for 2046 is the L.U.C 1860—something about it feels more certain as a future classic. He held it back from his Best Release of the Year list to save it for this question. My pick was somewhere between the two: The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Skeleton. Production is genuinely limited, and each one is numbered, which means we might have a good idea how many were actually made in 20 years. Daniel Roth, Gérald Genta, and La Fabrique du Temps will also likely be the last watchmaking projects from legendary watchmakers Enrico Barbasini and Michel Navas. It’s the kind of thing we only grow to appreciate as the years pass, especially their connection to Genta himself and the first generation of indies. Podcast episodes are published on Fridays. Listen here, and subscribe to get future episodes in your feed: Spotify / Apple / RSS. Also watch on YouTube:Show Notes* OT the Podcast on Apple Podcasts* Watches mentioned include: the Sinn U1, Earthen Ceramic, Andy's Rolex Land-Dweller (in for service), TAG Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph, Buzz Aldrin’s Speedmaster; Kiwame Tokyo Sakura, Anoma, Raymond Weil A.R.T, Hamilton Khaki Field 250, Blue Chanel J12, Cartier Privé collection; Naoya Hida x Zenith GFJ, Grand Seiko Ushio diver UFA, IWC Ingenieur 35 in Pool Blue, Chopard 1860 Areuse Blue, Daniel Roth Extra Plat Skeleton, titanium IWC Perpetual Calendar, and more. END-OF-SUMMER SALE!Head to the Unpolished Store to shop our selection of Canvas and Leather Straps. We’ll be restocking for fall in the next week, so everything currently in the store is marked down at least 10%:* Canvas Straps are $59* Matte Calfskin Straps are $95Check them out in the Store: shop.unpolishedwatches.comThanks for listening, and let us know your award winners for the first half of 2026. This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit www.unpolishedwatches.com/subscribe
Full show notes: www.unpolishedwatches.com/p/what-we-want-from-iwc-and-how-toToday’s Collector Conversation is with Wesley Smith, founder of Standard H, an automotive-inspired clothing brand. Wesley has worked in fashion and menswear for 30 years, and he’s also a big watch enthusiast.During his recent visit to Chicago, we sat down to talk about both. First, we get nerdy about t-shirts. The simplest garment there is, but dozens of decisions go into making one, whether it’s from Uniqlo, Buck Mason, or Standard H. How can you tell if it’s a good t-shirt? Besides his own, what’s Wesley’s favorite? Then we talk watches. What bugs us about the Lange Saxonia Annual Calendar; how to fix IWC; loud rotors; a TAG Heuer Carrera we’ve both owned; the spec sheet-ification of watches; the problem with most midsize watches; and more. The first ~20 minutes are clothing talk, then we get into watches. We’ll continue publishing podcasts every other Friday. Subscribe to get future episodes in your feed: Spotify / Apple / RSS.Unpolished is the newsletter for collectors and a top-20 Fashion Substack. Join for free or become a paid member for $8/mo: Show Notes* Standard H website; on Instagram* Standard H Avant t-shirt* Real Review: Lange Saxonia Annual Calendar* TAG Heuer CS3111 Carrera Re-edition from 1996* My TAG Heuer Carrera ‘Glassbox’ Week on the Wrist* BarrelhandShop our line of straps in the Unpolished Store: shop.unpolishedwatches.com This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit www.unpolishedwatches.com/subscribe
John Cote has been collecting watches since the 1990s. He learned from his dad, who collected pocket watches while John was growing up in Manhattan. He’s one of the guys that’s still out there hunting watches every single week. In addition to collecting, he’s written for Hodinkee, Fratello, in addition to being a prolific contributor on the NAWCC forums. He’s been the president of his local NAWCC chapter and served as a board member until 2025. John says his collecting philosophy is that “a collection should tell a story. He’s got a different approach to acquisition—he buys watches, usually mid-century chronographs, in pairs. He looks to pair the steel tool watch with its dressier counterpart.We talk about what you learn that you might not otherwise by hunting pairs; why John loves these boomer chronographs; how he’s seen watch collecting evolve over 30+ years; what he thinks about all these little dress watches; and a whole lot more. John’s from my hometown of Indianapolis, so it was a pleasure to have him on to talk watches. Subscribe to the podcast to get future episodes in your feed: Spotify / Apple / RSSUnpolished is the newsletter for collectors and a top-20 Fashion Substack. John for free or become a paid member for $8/mo:I’m going to continue publishing these shorter ‘collector conversations’ in between full podcast episodes—let me know if you’re enjoying them, and what other topics you’d like to see covered. Show Notes* John Cote on Instagram* The Boomer Watch Is On Sale, Unpolished* American Pocket Watches: A Primer For The Wristwatch Collector, John’s article on Hodinkee* A Very American Way to Lose an Industry, Unpolished* NAWCC Forums* John’s Wittnauer chronograph pair—he wore the black dial when we chatted: This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit www.unpolishedwatches.com/subscribe
Today’s guest is an explorer, attorney, writer, and watch collector. He’s been on five dives to the Titanic, and led the expedition that recovered the Apollo engines that launched men to the Moon. He’s a member of The Explorers Club, the society that counts astronauts, mountaineers, and famous explorers as its members. I’m excited to be joined by David Concannon. He’s also an accomplished attorney with 30+ years of experience, and has a hell of a watch collection.As part of his work with the Explorers Club, he works with Rolex on its Explorers Club Grant, which puts watches in the field. We talk about that program and what it’s like working closely with Rolex. We discuss his first Submariner, collecting watches, what watch he plans to take on his next expedition, and a whole lot more. Subscribe to the podcast to get future episodes in your feed: Spotify / Apple / RSSFor those of you listening on audio, the Unpolished Podcast is also now published as video on our YouTube channel HERE. Show Notes:* David Concannon on Substack* Relics of Apollo, Part 1, 2, 3 (David Concannon)* Rolex GMT-Master recall ad (Hodinkee)* Early Rolex Le Mans ad (Ad Patina)* The Explorers Club* Rolex Explorers Club Grant* Carl Spencer’s Rolex Sea-Dweller (Hodinkee)Unpolished is the newsletter for watches, and a top-20 Fashion Substack. Join for free or become a member for $8/mo ($80/year):Subscribers also get (1) 10% off in the Unpolished Store, (2) $50 off a service at Watchcheck, and (3) access to all comments and Q&As. This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit www.unpolishedwatches.com/subscribe
Full show notes: www.unpolishedwatches.com/p/meet-canadas-best-watchmaker-bradleyCanada isn’t exactly known for its watchmaking, but today’s guest is changing that, one handmade watch at a time. When I saw Bradley Taylor announce his latest watch, the Ardea, I knew he’d be a good guest. It’s a well-made, time-only watch—in vogue right now—but completely his own. The Ardea ($62k in steel; $82k in platinum) features a retrograde seconds that snaps back to zero every minute, and almost all of the components are made by Bradley in his Vancouver workshop.Bradley went to watchmaking school in Le Locle, Switzerland, and earned his Patek Philippe Level II certification before setting off on his own in 2020. We talk about his journey to becoming an independent watchmaker, the challenges of running a solo workshop, his thoughts on the market for high-end (and high-priced) indies, and where he fits in. Then, we dig into his latest release, the Ardea.For more on Bradley or to get in contact with him: bradleytaylor.caThank you to The Escapement for sponsoring today’s episode. For more info and tickets, visit theescapement.com.For those of you listening on audio, the Unpolished Podcast is also now published as video on our YouTube channel HERE:Unpolished is the newsletter for watch collectors, and a top-20 Fashion Substack. Join for free or become a member for $8/mo: Subscribers also get (1) 10% off in the Unpolished Store, (2) $50 off a service at Watchcheck, and (3) access to all comments and Q&As. This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit www.unpolishedwatches.com/subscribe
Full show notes: https://www.unpolishedwatches.com/p/bonus-ep-collecting-the-1990s-withSubscribe to Unpolished: unpolishedwatches.comToday’s a bonus episode with Trevor Wynn, host of the Paré Paré Podcast. Trevor was in Chicago during Memorial Day weekend, so we sat down for a short chat at Huckberry after filming a YouTube video. We talk about Trevor’s brief foray into acting, leaving your passion behind, some of our favorite watches from the 1990s from Rolex, IWC, TAG Heuer, and more, and other updates to Trevor’s collection. We’ll be back next week with a full episode featuring an interview with an independent watchmaker who recently announced his latest release. Thanks for listening! Subscribe to the podcast to get future episodes in your feed: Spotify / Apple / RSSUnpolished is the newsletter for watch collectors, and a top-20 Fashion Substack. Join for free or become a member for $8/mo:Subscribers also get (1) 10% off in the Unpolished Store, (2) $50 off a service at Watchcheck, and (3) access to all comments and Q&As.Show Notes:* Paré Paré on Apple Podcasts* How we all become sellouts, Decoder Ring* The Feed is Fake, Vulture* Benrus Type II, Analog Shift* The Best Field Watches, Unpolished YouTube* Cartier Santos SIHH 2002 LE, Tony’s Instagram* Omega Seamaster Chronograph 007 ‘First Light’ (17mm thick!), Omega* Modern two-tone Rolex GMT-Master II, Rolex* A Guide to TAG Heuer Dive Watches, On the Dash* Shop Unpolished Straps, Unpolished Store This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit www.unpolishedwatches.com/subscribe
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