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That's Not Real Climbing: Daily Summaries Delivered
by Jinni Xia
A glimpse into everything behind world of competition climbing.Hear from setters, organizers, athletes, and everyone in between to learn about this fast-growing sport!For further discussion, check out the comp climbing Discord at https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp.
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- May 4, 20261h 9m
Andy McVittie - The Kids are Climbing TOO MUCH!
Andy is a climbing PT and this is his second time on the podcast. This time, he’s here with new research to talk about why youth climbers are maybe overdoing it with the climbing training, what early arthritis looks like, and the surprising dangers of outdoor climbing when it comes to competition climbers.Guest links:WebsiteInstagramReference links:Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:05 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!1:45 - Spain trip and watching PCL4:44 - Getting into climbing and PT8:00 - Youth getting into competing more?9:10 - Are youth climber overtraining?11:28 - Outcome of growth plate fractures16:43 - Youth Climbers very rarely get injured21:28 - Youth climbers should not specialize in climbing32:03 - What does arthritis look like?37:00 - Is synovitis a sign of future arthritis?38:55 - Injuries are actually coming from outdoor climbing....46:32 - Max Milne's Foot Injury49:53 - Are injury rates increasing within comp climbers?52:53 - AUDIENCE Q: Common adult injuries breaking into the comp scene?59:48 - AUDIENCE Q: Can you even climb with hyper mobility?1:06:54 - Words of wisdom and where to find Andy
- Apr 27, 20261h 20m
Emil + Felix Abrahamsson - ANNOUNCING Fantasy Climbing League!
You likely know Emil from being one of the OG climbing Youtubers who has also competed in a few world cups for Sweden. With his brother, Felix, they have started a new Fantasy Climbing League platform! In this episode, we’ll learn about how the Fantasy Climbing League works, how they feel about sports gambling in climbing, who their top picks are for their teams, and their predictions for all things competition.Guest links:Fantasy Climbing League SiteEmil’s YoutubeFelix’s InstagramEmil’s InstagramReference links:Boardclimbs AppThank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:21 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!2:01 - Living in Arco5:22 - Starting climbing and competing14:26 - Existential AI talk17:14 - Fantasy Climbing League overview21:10 - They've never played fantasy sports before!!22:47 - Drafting strategy25:37 - Are fantasy leagues gambling-adjacent??33:36 - Top picks of the season42:07 - Are injury comebacks good picks?45:13 - Janja vs Ai debate52:26 - Will Tomoa have a downfall?!1:00:03 - Tomoa v Meichi?1:02:37 - AUDIENCE Q: What style of comp climbing would change the results the most?1:10:21 - AUDIENCE Q: What will the future of comp climbing look like?1:13:38 - AUDIENCE Q: What expectations should a comp beginner have?1:18:04 - AUDIENCE Q: What's your favorite WoW dungeon?1:19:05 - Join Fantasy Climbing League ASAP!!!
- Apr 13, 20261h 17m
Sam Avezou - The SECRETS to French Climbing
Sam is a French boulder and lead climber who has medals from several world cups and competed alongside his sister, Zelia at the Paris Olympics! In this episode, we’ll learn more about what it’s like growing up in a climbing family, tips for climbing as a short king, why he struggled in the 2025 season, and how he self-coaches.Guest links:Sam’s InstagramGuitar InstagramReference links:Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:24 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!2:34 - His mother still competing at 42 years old7:45 - Getting into climbing and competing9:31 - AUDIENCE Q: Did growing up in a climbing family add pressure?12:52 - Struggling between youth and senior circuits16:51 - Rough 2025 season22:53 - 2028 Olympics strategy26:37 - Being a short king31:34 - AUDIENCE Q: Tips for short kings?35:41 - Training with the French team37:51 - AUDIENCE Q: how do you self coach?41:21 - Training only with climbing45:21 - Gyms worth visiting in Paris47:05 - Secrets to French slab51:37 - AUDIENCE Q: What are you thinking about when climbing?56:06 - Mental game58:41 - 2026 goals1:01:22 - AUDIENCE Q: Playing guitar?1:04:58 - AUDIENCE Q: Can you make a living climbing?1:08:40 - AUDIENCE Q: How to gain finger strength?1:12:23 - AUDIENCE Q: Recovery routine?1:15:56 - Where to find Sam
- Mar 30, 20261h 29m
Jackie Hueftle - The MASTERMIND Behind PCL Routesetting
Jackie was the routesetting director at the Pro Climbing League (PCL) comp and is also the co-founder of Kilter! In this episode, we’ll learn more about the unique challenges that came with setting for PCL, why she thinks it’s important to have more women setting for women’s comps, and how YOU could maybe try climbing the same exact boulders set at PCL.Guest links:Kiter’s WebsiteJackie’s InstagramPro Climbing League WebsiteKilter YoutubeReference links:Underrated holdThank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:20 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!2:00 - Still cleaning up from PCL5:42 - Interesting Kilter free-standing option7:34 - Getting into climbing, setting, and Kilter 13:38 - The political path to becoming an IFSC setter15:34 - Starting the Woman Up Comps20:00 - What grade do you need to climb to be a route setter?22:31 - AUDIENCE Q: How did you build the PCL routesetting team?28:46 - What made setting different for PCL32:09 - How to get separation36:30 - AUDIENCE Q: Was this speed bouldering, was women's setting too easy?41:57 - Is sanding down holds fair?!43:47 - Why it's hard to calibrate for female competitors51:16 - How boulder changeover worked 55:37 - The slab that didn't get shown58:24 - Different competition strategies1:03:27 - AUDIENCE Q: Harder to gauge setting than World Cup?1:04:18 - AUDIENCE Q: Did the setting matter more than a World Cup?1:07:04 - AUDIENCE Q: Mixed gender events in the future?1:09:13 - AUDIENCE Q: idea - 2 betas per boulder?1:11:12 - AUDIENCE Q: Are setters more impressed or annoyed by beta breaks?1:17:23 - AUDIENCE Q: What makes Kilter stand out? 1:22:30 - Underrated hold?1:25:02 - Shoutouts and long work hours1:26:51 - YOU can reset the PCL climbs and experience them!
- Mar 16, 20261h 45m
Mickael Mawem - An HONEST talk about money in climbing
Mickael is a french boulderer and he is the bouldering world champ from Bern 2023. In this episode, we have an extremely honest conversation about how growing up poor motivated him to make money as a climber, why he stuck with climbing despite the lack of financial prospects, what his training looks like which includes warming up with 80 pull-ups, and of course, what happened during the Bern world champ finals. Shoutout to Madrock for hosting this interview at their headquarters!Guest links:Mickael’s InstagramReference links:Climbing with Jonathan Sin VideoThank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastTimestamps of discussion topicsTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:30 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!3:46 - Starting climbing with his brother Bassa7:45 - AUDIENCE Q: Being one of the few black climbers in the IFSC13:39 - Affording climbing when growing up poor24:31 - Pro climbing only pays enough for the present28:10 - Why he would not choose climbing in hindsight30:51 - Why he still chose climbing34:34 - AUDIENCE Q: Will you ever compete again in the IFSC? 38:33 - The goal: be rich45:25 - Bern World Champs finals boulders53:26 - Encountering no-tex for the first time ever1:01:59 - Mickael's crazy pull up training1:06:12 - How to work on your technique1:11:47 - The secret to French slab1:14:28 - Why he trains alone 1:21:59 - Keeping up with the evolution of climbing1:25:44 - His future in climbing?1:31:01 - New climbing goal1:33:38 - AUDIENCE Q: Who were your role models growing up?1:34:46 - AUDIENCE Q: What's your family like?1:39:28 - AUDIENCE Q: How to maintain strength without getting injured?1:44:50 - Where to find Mickael
- Feb 23, 20261h 8m
Mo Beck - UNRETIRING for the Paralympic Dreams
Mo is a paraclimber in the AU2 class, and she is trying to qualify for the 2028 Paralympics! She has been climbing for over 22 years and had actually retired from competing…until hearing about the Paralympics. In this episode, we’ll learn more about what it’s like climbing with a stump, whether outdoor, indoor, or comp setting is most friendly to her impairment, we’ll talk about petty drama in the community, and what sport shopping is in the Paralympics.Guest links:Mo’s InstagramMo’s WebsiteReference links:Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastTimestamps of discussion topicsTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:18 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!1:59 - Lifting at a bro-y gym3:28 - The 'stump' impairment7:40 - Getting into climbing and competing13:39 - Thoughts on gym setting for her stump 22:10 - Becoming a real sport means drama28:16 - "Training" back then vs real training now29:29 - World Cup appearances 2026 and 202730:55 - What we know about Paralympics qualifications32:18 - How the Paralympics have changed paraclimbing35:49 - Paralympic "Sport shopping"38:09 - Heartbreak over which sport classes got chosen for the Paralympics42:17 - What her training will look like to qualify at 39 years old46:44 - Audience Q: What does the process look like to qualify for Paralympics?48:59 - Dealing with comp nerves50:49 - Is outdoor climbing more friendly for her stump?52:38 - Outdoor projects and first ascents58:00 - AUDIENCE Q: Favorite comp memory?1:01:02 - AUDIENCE Q: Podium cupcake story?1:03:20 - AUDIENCE Q: Getting sponsored by North Face and tips for getting sponsors 1:06:20 - Words of wisdom and where to find Mo
- Feb 2, 20261h 14m
Rachel Carr - No high-level FEMALE COACHES??
Rachel is a Team GB coach and also Erin McNeice’s personal coach! She started as an athlete and competed in youth worlds, but moved down the coaching path shortly after. In this episode, we’ll talk about performance anxiety as an athlete, the difficulties she faced being taken seriously as a young female coach, and we’ll get insight into team GB’s training as well as Erin’s insanely huge team of coaches.Guest links:Rachel’s InstagramRachel’s YoutubeReference links:Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastTimestamps of discussion topicsTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:23 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!2:03 - Getting ready for British Bouldering Champs4:41 - Performance anxiety as an athlete8:59 - Being "realistic" on your performance13:46 - Becoming a coach15:44 - AUDIENCE Q: Difference between coaching youth vs senior?20:48 - Weirdness of coaching your past competition23:47 - Lack of trust in female coaches31:44 - AUDIENCE Q: What advice would you give to aspiring female coaches?34:29 - Erin's crazy huge team of coaches!40:23 - Team GB's philosophy on training style43:48 - Erin's 1 weird weakness...45:47 - Overrated and underrated training techniques?50:17 - Climbing goals53:57 - What's better than coaching at the Olympics?56:44 - AUDIENCE Q: Why was GB Climbing funding so bad?58:43 - AUDIENCE Q: Team GB is so strong right now, how has that impacted camaraderie amongst athletes?1:03:05 - AUDIENCE Q: How do you coach the mental side of competition? 1:07:53 - AUDIENCE Q: How do you think new comps like PCL will impact the scene for athletes and coaches?1:10:05 - AUDIENCE Q: Tips for new coaches?1:12:47 - Where to find Rachel
- Jan 19, 20261h 6m
Emma Edwards - Prague Finals DISASTER!
Emma is a boulderer on Team GB. 2025 was her debut in the senior world cup circuit and she already made a world cup finals! However, if you don’t recognize her, it may be because that was Prague where her finals round got rained out. In this episode, we’ll go over ALL the mishaps that happened at Prague including an allergic reaction, and we’ll learn about her training schedule, team GB, the climbing culture in commercial gyms, and how often she goes through climbing shoes, which was MIND BLOWING.Guest links:Emma’s InstagramReference links:Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastTimestamps of discussion topicsTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:31 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!2:11 - My annual stretching resolution5:29 - Used to do 6 days on 1 day off?!9:29 - Getting into climbing and competing11:47 - First year in the Senior Circuit14:28 - Starstruck warming up next to Miho & Janja16:02 - AUDIENCE Q: Advice for youth climbers transitioning to senior?17:02 - Climbing styles20:12 - Prague allergic reaction disaster24:59 - Prague finals getting rained out27:31 - AUDIENCE Q: How do you feel about the mental side of comp climbing?29:51 - Pretty decent prize money! :o31:40 - Being a taller climber32:45 - Team GB training in commercial gyms38:09 - British Youtube + Zoella39:47 - Season expectations?42:14 - Toxic Gym Culture?46:45 - Outdoor Climbing47:55 - Enjoying sedentary activities50:29 - Trying to balance training with school53:27 - AUDIENCE Q: How do you decide what gyms to train at?55:12 - AUDIENCE Q: Making climbing shoes last?59:09 - AUDIENCE Q: Favorite boulder from Brussels European cup?1:00:35 - AUDIENCE Q: What's the difference between TC and world cups?1:02:42 - AUDIENCE Q: Does your brother climb harder than you yet?1:04:43 - Words of wisdom and where to find Emma
About That's Not Real Climbing
A glimpse into everything behind world of competition climbing.Hear from setters, organizers, athletes, and everyone in between to learn about this fast-growing sport!For further discussion, check out the comp climbing Discord at https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp.
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