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by HODINKEE
This is the main feed for all of Hodinkee's podcasts, from "Hodinkee Radio" to new and special presentations, for discussions about the latest watch releases, interviews with notable collectors, and a whole lot more.
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- 5 days ago39 min
The Business of Watches [0311] Hublot Chief Executive Officer Julien Tornare On Partnering With Jeff Koons And Re-Connecting With The Brand's Founder
This week on The Business of Watches, a veteran watch industry CEO who is taking on one of the biggest and most demanding challenges of his storied career. Julien Tornare is the head of Hublot, the irreverent and ground-breaking brand controlled by LVMH that's trying to reclaim some of its former glory and role as a trend-setter in industry innovation. An affable and talented business leader, Tornare has spent almost three decades in the watch world, with Vacheron Constantin and Richemont, and then as the chief executive of Zenith, where he oversaw a dramatic revival and upswing for the El Primero maker. He then had a brief tenure as the CEO of TAG Heuer, before joining Hublot as the big boss in 2024. Tornare talks about Hublot's turbulent journey over the past four decades, and the spirit that's reflected in the brand's unconventional and outspoken ambassadors. He also takes on the marque's critics, making the case for why the YouTuber shots are largely unjustified. As for where Hublot is going, that's partly where it has been, as Tornare discusses the influence of Hublot's Italian founder Carlo Crocco as the company reconsiders its legacy ahead of its 50th anniversary in 2030. There's also news of a major new partnership with legendary American artist Jeff Koons, who is bringing his artistic vision to the watch brand for the first time with a series of bold collaborations. We also discuss the role that Jean Arnault, long considered the true watch enthusiast in the Arnault clan, now has with the brand. Show Notes:0:30 Julien Tornare (Instagram) 1:06 Hublot (website) 1:43 The Quirky Backstory Of The Hublot MDM (FHH) 1:59 Jean-Claude Biver & The Relaunch of Hublot (IMD Business School Case Study) 4:22 Hublot And Football A Perfect Match (The Hour Glass) 6:25 The Truth About Hublot And How Their Watches Stack Up (Luxury Bazaar) 7:51 Julien Tornare, CEO of Hublot: "Hublot Will Rebalance Its Investments" (Luxury Tribune) 9:20 Nyon (Swiss Tourism) 9:59 Hublot Classic Fusion Original Goes Back To Where It All Began (Hodinkee) 10:14 Hublot Expands The Big Bang Across Every Level (Hodinkee) 11:39 Carlo Crocco (Watch Wiki) 14:04 The Art of Fusion In Depth (Time & Tide) 14:24 Andy Warhol's Hublot (Italian Watch Spotter Instagram) 17:20 Hublot Ambassadors 19:50 Why Hate Hublot? Featuring Nico Leonard (YouTube) 21:58 LVMH Watch Boss Sees Jean Arnault as Best Candidate for His Role (SwissInfo) 24:00 <a href="https://www.hublot.com/en-ch/find-your-hublot
- 1 weeks ago1h 3m
The Business of Watches [039] A Market Roundup Of Geneva Watch Days Releases With Tim Jeffreys And TanTan Wang
This week on The Business of Watches, a fresh take on the new releases we saw at Geneva Watch Days and what they might mean for the market. Ahead of a special request summer fondue dinner, Tim, TanTan and Andy discuss what they saw, what they liked and didn't from the slew of novelties presented during the event. We go deep into the debut of Gallet, discussing how the entry-level offering from Breitling's House of Brands will stack up against the competition and how it will re-enter the company into the cut-throat $3,000 to $6,000 price category at a time when the Swiss industry is struggling to halt the slide in volumes. We also talk Bulgari, Oris, Frederique Constant, Girard-Perregaux, MB&F and the latest MADEditions, and why, when it comes to Doxa, you can't have just one. Plus, what the return of a new Northflag (now one word) heralds for Tudor. Show Notes:0:30 Tim Jeffreys 0:32 TanTan Wang 3:38 Gallet (brand website) 5:28 Introducing: The Gallet Flying Officer (Hodinkee) 5:50 Gallet Revives Vintage Fan Favorites With New "Classics" Multichrons (Hodinkee) 8:44 Business News: Breitling's House Of Brands Unveils New Executive Leadership With Georges Kern As Group CEO (Hodinkee) 11:30 Breitling To Relaunch Gallet Confirming Ambitions To Become Multi-Brand Watchmaker (Hodinkee) 12:55 Introducing: The Breitling Navitimer B09 Chronograph 41 Miles Davis (Hodinkee) 18:11 Essays: Prices, Volumes, And Passion: The Business Of Watches In 2025 And What To Expect In 2026 (Hodinkee) 22:30 Introducing: Frederique Constant Highlife Moonphase Date And Classics Moneta Handwinding (Hodinkee) 26:41 Introducing: Bulgari's Unexpected Dual Time Octo Finissimo With Vianney Halter, Plus A "Dazzle" Camo Release (Hodinkee) 30:45 Introducing: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tadao Ando Limited Edition Ref. 103534 (Hodinkee) 32:38 Introducing: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty Tourbillon Micro-Rotor 39 (Hodinkee) 35:50 Introducing: The Oris ProPilot X Gonzo Edition (Live Pics) (Hodinkee) 41:19 Introducing: Oris' Big Crown Pointer Date Goes Small With A New 29mm Version (Hodinkee) 43:15 IntroducingThe Doxa Sub 300 Ti5 (Hodinkee) https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-doxa-sub-300-ti5 48:30 Hands
- 2 weeks ago40 min
The Business of Watch [038] Armin Strom Co-Founders And Top Executives Serge Michel and Claude Greisler
This week on The Business of Watches, a visit with the folks running Armin Strom, a true original in the small but increasingly crowded field of independent watch brands. It takes its name and original inspiration from the eponymous Swiss watchmaker who was best known for his innovative and record-setting skeletonizing techniques on watches and dials. Childhood friends Serge Michel and Claude Greisler took over the brand in 2006. Michel, who controls the company, came from a family business background (in another field of business), while Greisler was a watchmaker and engineer. Twenty years on, Armin Strom is a true original in Swiss watchmaking, producing unique timepieces pushing the boundaries of contemporary horology from an atelier in Biel / Bienne, where most of the components are produced, decorated and finished for the brand's proprietary, in-house designed movements. This week the brand launch a new version of its Dual Time GMT Resonance in a "manufacture blue edition" with a blue mainplate. The watch employs Armin Strom's unique take on the concept of resonance with dual oscillators kept in balance by its proprietary 'resonance clutch.' The story of the development of the brand's take on the concept is a key element in its journey and we explore and unpack that process in-depth in the episode. Currently making about 400 watches a year with a staff of about 55 people, Armin Strom is on the cusp of increasing its capacity and output. The question is what that growth looks like and Serge Michel explores the decisions the brand is making to take that next step. Show Notes:2:36 Armin Strom 3:25 Burgdorf, Switzerland (Wikipedia) 5:28 Armin Strom: Exploring Its Past And Present (Fratello) 9:00 Armin Strom's First In House Tourbillon (Europastar) 10:23 In-Depth: Understanding Resonance In Watches (SJX) 12:20 Armin Strom Resonance Clutch Spring 16:04 CSEM Neuchatel 18:02 Innosuisse 20:59 Abraham-Louis Breguet (Wikipedia) 23:10 System 78 25:56 Armin Strom's Groundbreaking 'Minute Repeater Resonance 12:59 First Edition' Lets You Chime The Time (Or Really Show Off) (Hodinkee) 28:10 Armin Strom Extends Marussia F1 Partnership (Watchpro)
- 3 weeks ago43 min
The Business of Watches [037] Former CEO Of Bulgari Jean-Christophe Babin
This week on The Business of Watches, we're getting a preview and history lesson of Geneva Watch Days. Born in the dark days of the pandemic in 2020, it was a new kind of watch industry gathering, that prioritized access and community over exclusivity. Jean-Christophe Babin, the former Chief Executive Officer of Bulgari, has been there from the beginning. He tells us why Geneva Watch Days started and why it's still needed. We discuss what to expect at this year's event and what the future of watch industry events might bring. With some 71 brands exhibiting, GWD has more marques than that other big watch show in Geneva that happens each spring, but it's very different in tone and feel. Using a 'decentralized' concept, brands pay fees based on their size and revenue and the show allows for plenty of smaller, boutique brands to show off their wares. Open to the general public, it certainly isn't as glitzy nor as pricey an event as some others. Babin says the entire budget of GWD is likely less than the cost of staging and running a major booth at Watches and Wonders. A veteran who has served as the head of LVMH's watch unit as well the CEO of TAG Heuer, Babin has seen the industry through a myriad of cycles, giving him a unique perspective on where the watch sector has been and where it's going. Show Notes 0:59 Geneva Watch Days website 2:00 Geneva Watch Days 2020 / 2021 (FHS) 5:06 Geneva Tourism - Geneva Watch Days 9:12 Breitling was a founding member of GWD 10:31 Watches and Wonders 12:45 How Watches and Wonders Remains Worthwhile For Brands Big And Small (Hodinkee) 17:16 Geneva Watch Days Agenda / Panels / Symposiums 19:10 Phillips Geneva Watch Days Auction For Geneva Watchmaking School 22:15 Geneva.com 24:03 Fondation du Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève 31:18 Ferdinand Berthoud 32:00 FHS Statistics 33:40 The criteria for strengthening Swiss made (FHS) 35:20 Swatch 37:50 Casio mechanical watches 40:30 Swatch X Audemars Piguet 'Royal Pop' (Hodinkee)
- Aug 5, 202627 min
The Business of Watch [036] Collective Horology CEO Asher Rapkin And Liberty Justice Center Chairman and CEO Sara Albrecht On Suing Trump Over Tariffs
This week on The Business of Watches, Collective Horology co-founder and Chief Executive Asher Rapkin joins us. He brought his lawyer. While Collective is a Ventura, California-based retailer of independent watch brands, including Armin Strom, Czapek, Fears, Ming and J.N. Shapiro, Sara Albrecht is the chairman and CEO of The Liberty Justice Center. That's the non-profit litigation firm that led the legal fight successfully challenging President Trump's initial round of tariffs all the way to the Supreme Court of the United States. They won, in a surprise decision that ruled the President didn't have the authority to impose the levies that boosted the cost of importing goods to the U.S., including Swiss made watches. The government is now in the process of refunding the approximately $166 billion businesses paid out. Of course, the Trump administration found a work-around and immediately slapped on new tariffs and, on July 24, initiated levies of 10% and 12.5% on imported goods, including Swiss made watches. That's the day that Collective Horology and another importer (dealing in exotic spices), filed a lawsuit against the President and various bodies and individuals in the administration including U.S. Trade Representative Jamieson Greer. Rapkin tells us why his business decided to challenge the tariff laws and take on the President and his government while Albrecht lays out the legal argument driving their case. It's a matter of significant economic importance for U.S. business and the global watch industry. Show Notes0:46 Lawsuit filed by Collective Horology et. al against President Donald Trump 1:13 Swiss Watch CEOs Plot Next Move As US Tariffs Threaten Industry Sales (Hodinkee) 2:24 Collective Horology website 3:42 Watch Industry Cheers Supreme Court Tariff Ruling But Faces More Uncertainty As Trump Vows Workaround (Hodinkee) 4:57 Liberty Justice Center 7:28 Forced Labour Section 301 (U.S. Trade Representative statement) 10:50 U.S. dollar x Swiss franc (Xe Currency) 11:37 J.N. Shapiro Watches website 11:50 The Watch Switzerland Can't Make - Karel Bachand (Barrelhand) - Openwork podcast 14:53 Rolex And Richemont Executives Among Swiss Business Leaders Meeting With Trump (Hodinkee) 18:31 Swiss-U.S. Trade Relations (SECO) 20:05 U.S. Court of International Trade 21:11 Jamieson Greer (Hodinkee)
- Jul 29, 202640 min
The Business of Watches [035] Christie's Remi Guillemin On The Fundamental Shifts In The Auction Market Driving Record Prices
This week on The Business of Watches, we take stock at the halfway point of the year for watch auctions. Remi Guillemin, Christie's head of watches for the Americas, Europe and Middle East, gives us his take on what's driving the interest of the top watch collectors these days. It's a pivotal time, with the watch auction market setting record sales results at most of the top auction houses despite global economic challenges and geopolitical tensions and conflicts. The last time the market was this hot was in the post-COVID era of 2021 and 2022. Guillemin believes this time is different, and he tells us why references from F.P. Journe and Cartier, and (surprise!) pocket watches, are driving the market these days and how that's a fundamental shift from the hype watch driven boom post-pandemic. He also shows us some of the watches in his personal collection and reveals the grail he's still chasing. Show Notes 0:36 Remi Guillemin (Christie's website - scroll for bio) 1:00 Auctions: The Five Results That Actually Mattered, From The Spring 2026 Auction Season (Hodinkee) 3:08 Luxury Watch Sales at Auctions Drop 13% After Post-Covid Surge (SwissInfo/Bloomberg) 5:17 Revealed: A unique Audemars Piguet monopusher chronograph wristwatch unseen since its manufacture in the 1930s (Christie's) 5:49 Recent Daniel Roth Auction Results at Christie's 10:48 F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain Reference T 14:37 Private Sales (Christie's) 17:23 Tiffany Blue Patek 5711 18:37 Cartier London Crash 20:42 Zuckerberg Wears $900,000 Watch To Announce End Of Meta Fact Checks (Bloomberg) 23:40 The A. Lange & Söhne Little Lange 1 Moon Phase With Gold Flux Dial (Hodinkee) 29:36 Krayon Anywhere (Hodinkee) 30:34 Patek Philippe Reference 130 in steel (Hairspring) 35:15 French Soccer Legend Zinédine Zidane Talks Watches And Why He's Offering His First Cartier To A Special Charity Sale
- Jul 22, 202630 min
The Business of Watches [034] Inside Lorier Watches' Acquisition With Lorenzo Ortega And Blake Malin
This week on The Business of Watches, a breaking news story, of sorts. Our friends at Worn & Wound have acquired Lorier Watches. It's a story of success for the New York-based boutique brand that started way back in 2017 with a mission to make vintage-inspired watches, designed to be worn every day, at an approachable price. In a way, it's a tale of too much success. Lorier co-founders, the husband and wife team Lauren Ortega and Lorenzo Ortega, struggled with the rapid growth of the small company, and the inability to meet demand for their products took a toll on the two-person operation. They considered winding up the brand, as it were, but a talk with Blake Malin, the co-founder of the well-established content, retail, and watch event company Worn & Wound, also based in New York, set them on a different path. The acquisition of Lorier is the first time Worn & Wound has acquired a watch brand. Malin and Lorenzo Ortega join us to talk about how the deal came about and what's next for both Lorier and Worn & Wound. Though Ortega spent his formative years in Geneva until he was about 18, it's a decidedly American business story in the watch industry. Show Notes: 1:11 A New Chapter for Lorier 1:48 Handsome Mechanical Watches For Less Than $500? Look No Further Than Lorier (Gear Patrol) 3:00 Worn & Wound 3:39 Windup Watch Fair 6:10 Grand Central Watch collaboration 8:02 The Lorier Hydra SIII (Hodinkee) 11:05 Windup Watch Shop 23:30 Art Deco vs. Art Nouveau (Rise Art)
- Jul 15, 202653 min
The Business of Watches [033] Guido Terreni (Chief Executive Officer, Parmigiani Fleurier)
This week on The Business of Watches, we're talking to the leader behind one of the strongest turnaround stories in the industry in recent years. Guido Terreni joined Parmigiani Fleurier as CEO in January, 2021 from Bulgari and has overseen a dramatic transformation in the design, style, and fortunes of the brand founded by master watchmaker and restoration expert Michel Parmigiani in 1996, with backing from the Sandoz Family Foundation. Under Terreni's guidance, Parmigian Fleurier has been transformed. Striving to convey the concept of "private luxury," the brand has released a series of surprising, elegant, technically innovative, and yet restrained timepieces under its Tonda PF and Toric model lines. The brand has done nothing less than reimagine and reinterpret classic complications, including the GMT and, most recently, the Tonda PF Chronograph Mysteriéux, which stole the show, for many, at this year's Watches and Wonders. In a wide-ranging conversation, Terreni unveils the philosophy behind the brand's discreet aesthetic and the structure behind its manufacture and organization. We discuss retail, production, and design concepts aimed at taking Parmigiani Fleurier to the next level in the hyper-competitive luxury space. Show Notes: 1:05 The History of Parmigiani Fleurier (company website) 1:38 Global Impact of the Collapse of Lehman Brothers (Harvard Business School) 3:00 Early Parmigiani Fleurier And the Enduring Appeal Of Overbuilt Watches (Hodinkee) 8:12 That Time I Wrote That 'Swatch Group' Was A Dumb Name, And What Happened Next (Hodinkee) 16:42 Tonda PF Collection (company website) 19:02 Hands-On: Parmigiani's New Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante Is The Understatement Of The Year (Hodinkee) 23:50 Quiet Luxury (EFL) 28:10 The Rise And Fall Of The Hype Watch (Hodinkee) 31:08 Tonda PF Minute Rattranpante 31:18 Tonda Chronograph Mysteriéux (YouTube Monochrome) 41:39 Brand retailers 49:36 Toric Collection (company website)
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