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Conscious Chatter: Daily Summaries Delivered
by Kestrel Jenkins
The first global sustainable fashion podcast, Conscious Chatter opens the door to conversations about our clothing + the layers of stories, meaning and potential impact connected to what we wear. Hosted by Kestrel Jenkins, Conscious Chatter tackles nuanced topics that intersect with sustainability, fashion, systems of oppression, health, and wellbeing through a curiosity-driven lens. Through deep dive monthly themes, the focus is on making the conversation more circular.
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- 2 weeks ago54 min
Designer Olivia Cueva of Oakland Style Lab on the overlapping of biomaterials research, fashion design, & community-centered education as a multifaceted approach to rethinking fashion's systems
In Episode 342, Kestrel welcomes Olivia Cueva, a radical dreamer, designer, technologist, and researcher, to the show. Olivia's work bridges creative technology, fashion, biomaterials, and storytelling to explore transformation, regeneration, and collective care. Her practice moves fluidly between community-centered education, speculative design, and research into sustainable and bio-based materials—always with the aim of sparking dialogue, nurturing resilience, and envisioning more just futures. "A lot of the research that I do now is focused on natural dyes and working with plants and seeing how the natural dyes that we would maybe normally use on natural fibers actually translate to biomaterials. it's been a really amazing process of returning or like sort of remembering ancestry in a way … when I'm working with a certain plant, I'm actually not just looking at its color properties, but I'm also researching what is the story of this plant? How has it been used in different indigenous cultures?" -Olivia THEME — EXPANSIONS AROUND MATERIALITY TO RETHINK FASHION'S SYSTEMS Before we dive in this week, I want to share a massive thank you and shout out to my friend Denali Joie, who was featured back on episode 312. Denali helped connect me with this week's guest after meeting her in Brazil at a conference. You can listen to my episode with Denali here > I am so grateful for this connection as it led to this week's guest's cofounder attending the Design For Compliance workshop Gabi and I hosted at UC Berkeley through Fashion Is Outrageous, and led to the amazing conversation that you're about to hear. Sometimes, we don't slow down enough to realize how these tiny links lead to really beautiful future moments, and I just wanted to take a moment to honor Denali and the way that she instigated this beautiful unfolding. This week, we're talking about a super intriguing overlapping of biomaterials research with community-centered education. My guest, Olivia, has woven these seemingly diverse practices into her extremely expansive work. However, when we get into it, and she talks about using "Future-Facing Innovation" to reimagine our relationships with garments and the systems around us, or she shares more on how her biomaterials research links with Oakland Style Lab, a sustainable fashion education program and community cultural hub dedicated to building a more inclusive and resilient fashion ecosystem in the Bay Area – the correlations are beautifully seamless. She shares with us how ancestral knowledge and intergenerational learning drive her work and how throughout it all, she focuses on slowing down in order to better reclaim critical thinking amidst the current world we live in. Amidst the consistently depressing political times we are existing within, it's a refreshingly grounded take that definitely helped me feel optimistic and further motivated. "Fashion is so interesting because we're all connected to this industry, whether we care about what we wear or not. Right? Like we all wear clothes for the most part. It's something that touches every society. Whether we shop fast fashion, we only shop thrift, we only shop sustainable fashion brands or we shop at Target — you know, we all are participating in this system and the system is generating so many clothes and textiles and so much waste, and so many people are not aware of that." -Olivia Oakland Style Lab's Website Olivia's Website Oakland Style Lab Instagram Olivia's Instagram
- May 25, 20261h 5m
Dr. Joanne Brasch of the California Product Stewardship Council on SB 707 The Textile Recovery Act Of 2024 - the nation's first textile EPR bill
In Episode 341, Kestrel welcomes Dr. Joanne Brasch, the Assistant Director at the California Product Stewardship Council (CPSC), to the show. A network of local governments, non-government organizations, businesses, and individuals supporting policies and projects where producers share in the responsibility for managing problem products at their end of life, CPSC is California's thought leader and expert on Product Stewardship and the Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) movement. "We're most proud of our textile EPR program because we achieved a lot in SB 707 that set a new level, a new generation of EPR programs that take a higher priority and implement a lot more reuse and repair throughout the program." -Joanne THEME — EXTENDED PRODUCER RESPONSIBILITY & TEXTILE WASTE DIVERSION This episode is the second in our two-part series dedicated to exploring some of the layers around Extended Producer Responsibility, or EPR, and Textile Waste Diversion. In line with this conversation, I want to share about an upcoming event I'm collaborating on that's taking place in Los Angeles on June 10th. The Recovered Textile Exhibit is hosted by the City and County of Los Angeles, the California Product Stewardship Council, and the LA Cleantech Incubator. It's funded by CalRecycle, LA Sanitation, and others, and is in collaboration with Afflare.co and Fashion Is Outrageous. There will be keynote speakers, discussions, and interactive activities that my cofounder Gabi and I helped develop, all with a focus on textile circularity and diverting textiles from the landfill. Additionally, the PRO (Producer Responsibility Organization), Landbell, will be present at the event. If you're interested in attending, you can RSVP here. If you're able to join, I hope to see you there! On the last show, we touched on some of the big picture ideas around EPR, and many of the questions around how we can make these circular systems practical. On this week's episode, we're diving deep into the first-ever textile EPR bill in the U.S., SB 707: The Responsible Textile Recovery Act of 2024. While this isn't the first EPR policy to hit California or the nation, it is the first to cover TEXTILES. I chat with someone who played an integral role in the legislative process for the bill – we dive into more on their open-collaborative approach and the importance of community-informed programs, we explore what the "most diverse board requirements" means within the context of SB 707, we learn about how feedback played a distinct role in the legislative process including some from the Or Foundation, and we discuss some of the definitions within the bill like REUSE and RECYCLE, with a focus on unpacking the definition of REPAIR, which is the first global definition that includes upcycling. You will hear words and phrases like PRO, Needs Assessment, dynamic, legislative and regulatory process, and more. We do our best to help contextualize these definitions along the way, but if you have questions, let me know. I don't want this to feel like another policy conversation that leaves you in the dark – I want it to feel like you can feel welcomed into it, as this is a monumental bill for California and the sustainability and fashion industry as a whole. One of my favorite things about this bill is that it's DYNAMIC, meaning it will change over time, and be rewritten every 5 years, based on key findings and learnings. So remember – your voice can play an important role in how this bill continues to evolve moving forward. Also, to note – when this episode was recorded, our guest's new title had not yet been released publicly. Congrats to her, as she is now the Assistant Director – you'll actually hear her reveal it to us later on in the episode. Quotes and links from our conversation: "If we're shopping in a different way 20 years from now, this program can adapt to that because the plan is rewritten every five years and has evidence-based decision-making provisions within the program." -Joanne on why SB 707 being a dynamic bill matters "I think the open collaborative approach has really been making sure everyone is using the same language and understands the same process so we can get the best engagement now." -Joanne on CPSC's approach to developing community-informed programs "We know repair costs more. We know that it's labor intensive, but we also know,
- May 11, 202643 min
Constanza Gomez of Sortile on the questions we should be asking around EPR policy, a tool to support textile recycling, and the need for more research and data in the textile sector
In Episode 340, Kestrel welcomes Constanza Gomez, the cofounder and CEO of Sortile, to the show. Sortile is a company focused on empowering the textile recycling industry with technology that enables the identification, sorting and traceability of textiles. "I was a much more hopeful person when I started this company and I've slowly become more of a skeptic. But that means I've leaned more heavily on the need for regulation versus people acting of their own free and good hearts. And so I think the opportunity is great. You can redefine and set real incentives to manage end of life better." -Constanza THEME — EXTENDED PRODUCER RESPONSIBILITY & TEXTILE WASTE DIVERSION EPR, or Extended Producer Responsibility, has come up on the show in the past in various capacities – we first talked about it in depth back on episode 275 with Liz Ricketts and Sammy Oteng from The Or Foundation when they were the first grant recipient of SHEIN's Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) Fund to help manage textile waste. Just to get our minds on track for this chat – EPR or Extended Producer Responsibility initiatives or legislation ideally ensure that producers are required to assume the costs of collection, treating, and recycling of the end-of-life of their products. We are currently in a very exciting time when it comes to EPR policy around the world – there are mandatory schemes in France, Sweden and the Netherlands, with others on the horizon … and where I'm based, here in California, the nation's first EPR policy for textiles, SB 707, passed in 2024, and is currently moving through the process of being implemented. There are still SO MANY UNKNOWNS when it comes to how these policies are going to play out, but one thing that this week's guest sees as a benefit to this shifting legislation is – MORE ACCESS TO DATA. As she shares, we just don't have enough data on the textile industry, and when we do, it's generally static data. When EPR comes into play, companies are going to HAVE to report and share specific data, which is going to bring in a much more consistent stream of data and over time, will lead to having more access to dynamic data as well. This week's guest sees the direct link between research and data, and the need for more of both across the textile space to support more textile diversion – her own research led her to develop a table top textile scanner that helps determine the fiber composition of textiles, a massive support in the sorting process. We talk about that, but also bigger questions around the opportunities and challenges she sees with EPR policy. I have to say – one thing this week's guest absolutely nailed in our conversations is – posing which questions that we should be asking right now with a big focus on – how do we make these systems practical? Sortile Website Follow Sortile on Instagram
- Feb 3, 202650 min
Beth Jensen of Textile Exchange on fashion's complex history with data, how the organization is addressing it through their open-source reporting and the need to ensure the search for *perfect data* doesn't hinder real action
In Episode 339, Kestrel welcomes Beth Jensen, the Chief Impact Officer at Textile Exchange, to the show. Leading the organization's efforts to achieve beneficial climate and nature impacts, Beth oversees key functions at Textile Exchange including impact data and Life Cycle Assessment studies; impact tools and reporting mechanisms; reports and research; fundraising; and public affairs/policy. "A big part of vulnerability is really admitting that you don't have all the answers. So in sustainability, in fashion, apparel, and textile space, this is just the way we have to operate. If you said you had all the answers, you wouldn't be taken seriously in this space … What you present as data might change the next time you present it because you have new and better information. You just have to be able to work in the gray and really take the best available information and make informed decisions based on that information." -Beth THEME — DATA & FASHION: METHODS & ACCESS Before we dive in, I want to take a moment to remind us all that FASHION IS POLITICAL. Whenever a big politically-charged moment arises in the U.S., there is this narrative I see creeping around that expects fashion (brands, designers, creators, etc) to stay silent on quote unquote political issues – that fashion should stay in its so-called lane, detached from the world around it. Here's the thing – FASHION IS POLITICAL. It always has been and it always will be. It doesn't exist in its own little vacuum. If you care about the fashion industry, and its impact on people and the planet, it's imminent to pay attention and engage in so-called politics, because it's entirely interconnected. Just to mention a few of these significant overlaps – The origins of the fashion industry in the United States – cotton grown by Black enslaved folks who were forced to immigrate – is political. The way clothing supply chains operate – predominantly spread across the Global South where our clothes are made by mostly women of color, who are often paid less than a living wage – is political. How certain materials permeate the fashion industry – fossil fuel-derived fibers AKA plastic. While other natural fibers were historically made illegal to grow AKA hemp – is political. The largest garment manufacturing city in the U.S. is Los Angeles, employing over 46,000 garment workers, most of whom are immigrant women from Mexico and Central America. L.A. is the wage theft capital of the U.S., with the average hourly wage being $5.85 (Labor Violations In The LA Garment Industry, Garment Worker Center, 2020) The institutionalized violent origins of ICE as well as the continued horrific acts they have made toward immigrants and nonimmigrants, fellow members of our communities – is political. As Faherty called it in their recent IG post – systemic inhumanity affects us all – our families, friends, colleagues, neighbors and communities, and that is political. If you try to separate fashion from politics, clothing from humans, it's impossible. Clothing is made by people who are integral members of our communities and valued creatives along the supply chain. We must advocate for our fellow community members and the safety of our neighbors. This is the second episode is a 2-part series dedicated to DATA IN FASHION. While many of you may already have an understanding of these elements, I think they are important to reframe and contextualize the following conversation. The fashion industry and the so-called sustainable fashion space has a concerning history with data. The so-called stat – fashion is the 2nd largest polluter globally, second only to oil – unfortunately spread like wildfire before it was found to be unsubstantiated – in 2017, journalist Alden Wicker brought this to light in an article on Racked, and the NY Times did a deep dive into it the following year, calling it the "biggest fake news in fashion". It's clear that the fashion industry has a massive impact
- Jan 20, 202646 min
Miranda Green of Atmos on disappearing climate data, how it's impacting journalists & their ability to tell important stories, and what we can do about it
In Episode 338, Kestrel welcomes Miranda Green, an investigative journalist focused on politics and climate change, to the show. As the author of Atmos Magazine's weekly newsletter, The Understory, Miranda takes a weekly look behind the climate headlines to question how decisions are made, why they matter, and what they reveal about this moment. "I think data to me is, they're facts. It's hard facts. It's looking at points that have been, you know, they're determined by scientists. They've been measured. They are proven points that then, I can use as building blocks to tell my story." -Miranda THEME — DATA & FASHION: METHODS & ACCESS This week, we're taking a bit of a pulled back lens, exploring data amidst the current volatile political landscape, with a focus on climate data. Also, to note, this episode was recorded in December of 2025 – as things are changing so rapidly in these times, I want to clarify that detail. We are in this period of so-called misinformation and an era in which DATA MANIPULATION, as this week's guest articulates, is very real. But it's not only the way the data is being adjusted to fit the user's agenda - there's also the reality that scientifically-backed data is disappearing. The article that led me to this week's guest is called – "Big Gov Wants To Take Away Your Climate Data" (link below) and in it, she talks about how she always anticipated when the EPA would release its annual tally of corporate polluters and the fines they would have to pay when the pollution was too high. BUT, under Trump, these corporations are no longer required to report their emissions. And that means we don't know what the baseline is for these big polluters, moving forward – we no longer have the comparison data. This is just one blip in the labyrinth of climate and emissions data that this administration is finding ways to bury or delete. For this week's guest, an investigative journalist, the erasure of climate and emissions data by the Trump administration is making it harder to do her job, and to write stories about what's truly going on. On the show, we regularly talk a lot about the desire to understand where we're at when it comes to data in the fashion space, in order to determine the best way to move forward. With fashion being one of the most underregulated industries, having a complicated history with so-called data, and with big fashion players being some of the most notorious polluters out there, this reality of disappearing data is highly concerning. But people are fighting back – scientists and advocacy groups are finding ways to monitor the situation and challenge the Administration's actions. And this week's guest has ideas as well of how we can all get more engaged in ways to resist the continued erasure of significant climate data. "Big Gov Wants To Take Away Your Climate Data", article by Miranda on Atmos "I think out of sight out of mind is essentially what we are seeing happen right now and it does make it hard to determine what the truth is because what it ends up becoming is essentially, as you just described, is a marketing battle." -Miranda Follow Miranda on Instagram Follow Atmos on Instagram
- Nov 18, 202549 min
Gail Gallie of THE NAT on their inaugural gala and the need to focus on galvanizing global capital to close the nature finance gap
In Episode 337, Kestrel welcomes Gail Gallie, the founder of THE NAT, to the show. A new convening force for Nature, THE NAT is primarily focused on galvanizing the private capital needed to close the nature finance gap; they just held their inaugural NAT Gala "Night For Nature" in September 2025. From working in advertising to co-leading the creation of the UN Global Goals Campaign, Gail has an extensive background in global advocacy and campaigning. "I was pretty blown away that you could quantify the amount of money that was needed to fix where we are now to where we need to get to in order to be in harmony and sustainably working with the planet's resources…and then she said the number and it was $711 billion a year. And I was like, OMG that's enormous…And at the same time, this guy next to me lent in and he said, did she just say the nature finance gap is $711 billion? I said, yeah, I had like sad face, like boo, thumbs down, it's loads. And he said, no, he said, that's like not that bad." -Gail THEME — BRINGING NATURE BACK INTO THE FASHION FOLD In our last episode, I talked about how this 2-part episode theme – BRINGING NATURE BACK INTO THE FASHION FOLD – was inspired by Carry Somers' new book The Nature Of Fashion and the importance of reminding ourselves that we are Nature and fashion has the potential to be more of a reflection of Nature. This episode approaches this narrative from an ENTIRELY different lens – one that involves finance, luxury and creating a spectacle – which is why I really love the juxtaposition of these two conversations. If you hadn't heard yet, there is an actual number that has been calculated – an amount of money that if invested annually into nature-positive projects – could halt biodiversity loss and support a reset for the earth, enhancing life on this planet for years to come. It's called the nature finance gap – and according to estimates in 2020, the number was $711 billion dollars. If you're like me, hearing that number made me sink deeper into my seat, feeling the overwhelm wash even further over me. But turns out, for folks working in the investment space, this number's not actually that astronomical. It's somewhat accessible — according to this week's guest, if just 2% of global capital is redirected into nature, we could close that gap. So how does that happen? Considering that about 80% of current conservation funding comes from public sources like governments and multilateral institutions – that leaves a ton of space to galvanize private capital to bridge that gap. This week's guest has set out to make this happen by creating a luxurious spectacle in celebration of Nature. Anyone ever heard of The Met Gala? Right. Of course you have. If you work in sustainability, have you ever felt annoyed that everyone is paying attention to this one over-the-top night? And have you felt irritated that so much money is being funneled into the tickets and often very unsustainable attire for the evening? You're not alone. Yet so many of us still pay attention to it all. It's a spectacle and we are drawn to it. This week's guest, Gail, generally shared similar feelings. But a couple of Met Galas back, she shifted her perspective and decided to thinking about copying the concept, instead of fighting it — creating a sparkly night focused on generating more funding for Nature – to push toward closing that Nature Finance Gap. Maybe if we *feel* the power and intrigue of particular cultural moments, we should question how to replicate and reimagine them — instead of finding ourselves caught in the hamster wheel of complaining about the negative impact they may leave behind. Global Biodiversity Framework THE NAT's Website THE NAT on LinkedIn Gail Gallie on LinkedIn Ge
- Nov 4, 202546 min
Carry Somers on her new book "The Nature Of Fashion" and the importance of both restoring fashion's connection with nature and repositioning fashion in the broader narrative of ecology as a mirror of who we are
In Episode 336, Kestrel welcomes author and visionary changemaker, Carry Somers, to the show. Co-founder of Fashion Revolution, the world's largest fashion activism movement, and the author of a new book – The Nature Of Fashion: A Botanical Story Of Our Material Lives, Carry has worked across the fashion space in various capacities, advocating for a shift towards transparency, fairness, and sustainability in supply chains. "Textiles reflect our connection with the natural world, but they're not just about utility. They're definitely about beauty as well. But they're also really an echo of our disconnection from it. And I realized during my research that that rift actually started far earlier than I'd ever realized." -Carry THEME —BRINGING NATURE BACK INTO THE FASHION FOLD There are various theories on what has led to the so-called disconnect between humans and nature – not only physically, but also ideologically. Amidst the fashion conversation, it's not necessarily prioritized. We may hear environmental advocates pushing for an expansion in the narrative to ensure humans are included as an integral part of nature. Or we may hear discussions about why we must reconnect with nature in order to better care for it. As this week's guest, Carry, teaches us – textiles are an integral part of this story – and they can tell us far more about our relationship with nature than we ever imagined – from both a historical and future-oriented lens. This two-part focus of the podcast is inspired by her new book – The Nature Of Fashion: A Botanical Story Of Our Materials Lives. The theme is: BRINGING NATURE BACK INTO THE FASHION FOLD. If you know me, you know I get very nerdy about words and their layered meanings. Which is why reading this segment from Carry's pulled me deep into the pages that followed – "The Latin verb texere, meaning to weave or construct with elaborate care, reminds us that both textiles and texts stem from acts of creation. Textiles and texts, born of the same etymological thread, are entwined with our histories, our cultures, our lives." The beautiful thing is that these overlaps between textiles and texts – materials and stories – goes far beyond just Latin. As our guest shares, they both evoke texture and encode memory, and through her research, she discovered that across various cultures around the world, there are parallels in both language and meanings, connecting textiles with texts. So, it becomes more and more clear that textiles have something significant to teach us about our collective history and future. At the same time, as my guest reminds us, the inequity of the archives became glaringly obvious the deeper she got into her research. So, in her book, *data collection* meant something more expansive than what we might be used to. For her, it was rooted in research, while also welcoming imagination and prioritizing oral traditions. As she poses in the book – "what if the story of humanity could be told through a single thread?" "Balance is not a place to reach, but a rhythm to feel." -Carry in her book Buy The Nature Of Fashion Carry's Website Follow Carry on Instagram
- Oct 21, 202550 min
Lisa Kibutu of Regenerative Fashion Collaborative Exchange (REFACE) on developing textiles in Africa from Indigenous agricultural waste and embracing AI (ancestral intelligence)
In Episode 335, Kestrel welcomes Lisa Kibutu, the founder of Regenerative Fashion Collaborative Exchange (REFACE) and Regenerative Textile Development Institute (RTDI), to the show. A tech-led social enterprise, REFACE was created to holistically address the negative impact of the global fashion industry on climate change, biodiversity, and the environment in Africa. With RTDI, she is building a pioneering research and development institution that leverages blockchain technology, zero waste operations, and regenerative agriculture to transform agricultural waste from Indigenous grain crops into high-quality textile yarn. "You're standing in this space, the gap between what society is expecting of you and what your soul insists on you to become. And it influences all my work and my obligation to the sacrifice of our ancestors, the sacrifice that they made to the colonizers, which is why we are where we are today. I sit on ancestral intelligence, which is the blueprint and the foundation of everything that I do. A little bit more than a blueprint to me – I am actually just going to claim my inheritance from the ancestors. And that claiming of the inheritance has become my purpose." -Lisa THEME —WHEN *REGENERATIVE* MEANS SO MUCH MORE THAN JUST A BUZZWORD The following is a very important statistic that is rarely centered in the so-called sustainability and fashion conversation — as reported by the UNEP, Africa contributes less than 3% of global greenhouse gas emissions. At the same time, the continent has been disproportionately impacted by the changing climate. With this in mind, in conjunction with her knowledge in fashion, design, anthropology and regenerative agriculture – Lisa founded a powerful two-prong approach to not only address the negative impact of the global fashion industry on climate change, biodiversity, and the environment in Africa, but also – to strategically research and develop innovative textiles made from the waste of Indigenous crops, and to maintain ownership of these technologies within the continent. Africa has a unique potential at this point in our history – especially when it comes to regenerative agriculture, with 80% of all the food production in Africa being run by smallholder farmers. The opportunities across Africa are expansive. And as Lisa reminds us, it's not about empowerment. It's about following the blueprint from AI – that is ancestral intelligence – and focusing on enriching communities across the continent. "You're right. Fashion is cultural. Cause you've moved from the basic need of covering according to weather patterns, and then you advance to the space where – you need to appeal to aesthetics. That's the next level. But aesthetics are particular to what you find in your environment and then it becomes artistic expression, personal expression of yourself. And I think those are the pieces now, when we talk about fast fashion – those are the pieces that are missing." -Lisa RTDI Website Follow REFACE on Instagram
About Conscious Chatter
The first global sustainable fashion podcast, Conscious Chatter opens the door to conversations about our clothing + the layers of stories, meaning and potential impact connected to what we wear. Hosted by Kestrel Jenkins, Conscious Chatter tackles nuanced topics that intersect with sustainability, fashion, systems of oppression, health, and wellbeing through a curiosity-driven lens. Through deep dive monthly themes, the focus is on making the conversation more circular.
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