Australia is full of white chefs who often receive critical acclaim for cooking cuisines they have no personal connection to, while migrant chefs are expected to stay in their lane. Why do some chefs get the creative freedom to experiment while others are seen as gatekeepers of tradition? Who is allowed to play and innovate? Jess Ho chats with chef Eun Hee An, owner of Moon Mart, to examine the structural barriers that limit who gets to cook “their” food and have it taken seriously.
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