What to do in Belleville and the 20th district of Paris

Let's take a deeper dive into the 20th arrondissement of Paris. This is an updated re-release of the time we visited the 20th arrondissement as part of our Paris Countdown season.  You'll hear dinnertime singalongs, a cemetery visit, and more about the best pizza in Europe. There is even an interview with a Polish singer called Gosia who had just finished leading an Edith Piaf show at a local restaurant. (She sings on the episode, too, her fave Edith song, which was J'm'en fous pas mal). You can find everything we mention on this post:  This episode brought to you by The Earful Tower Tours. Come join us in the Marais, Montmartre, or the Latin Quarter. Our Walking Tours are exceptionally highly rated online and are the best way to experience this podcast in real life. The Earful Tower exists thanks to support from its members. For just $10 a month you can unlock almost endless extras including bonus podcast episodes, live video replays, special event invites, and our annually updated PDF guide to Paris.  Membership takes only a minute to set up on Patreon, or Substack. Thank you for keeping this channel independent.  For more from the Earful Tower, here are some handy links: Website  Weekly newsletter  Walking Tours If you're in a rush, here is a narrative distillation of the episode (meaning, essentially, that you're reading about 10 percent of what happens).  Oliver: Let me take you back to December 19th, 1915, in Paris, where a baby girl named Edith Piaf was born on the cold streets of Belleville. She became the soul of Paris and, more specifically, the soul of the district we are sharing with you today in the far east of the city. To get there, we are taking a car, and I'm joined by my wife and confidant, Lina,. Lina: Yes, I am ready. Welcome to a new season. Oliver: I'm very excited. I've described my role this season as the Robin to your Batman. Lina: And usually, I am the Batman, of course. Oliver: We want to give everyone a glimpse into this interesting neighborhood where Edith Piaf served as the muse,. Upon arrival in Belleville, we stayed at the Babel Belleville hotel. It was immediately clear that this is a different version of Paris than the one people expect with berets and the Eiffel Tower. Lina: Especially since we arrived on market day. Oliver: The market was busy, bustling, and colorful, with more people than I've ever seen in a Paris market. We were in full tourist mode, talking to street sellers and eating what seemed like an Algerian Korean crepe,. The area is very diverse and immersive,. We also noticed that as time passed, there were far fewer tourists than in areas like the Marais. Lina: The shops aren't catered to tourists either; many were residential or even closed down,. It's a real, unpolished neighborhood. Oliver: Our plan was to explore for the day and then attend a show at Le Vieux Belleville. The 20th is a large district, so we did a lot of walking. We set our sights on Peppe's Pizza, which is ranked the best pizza in Europe. On the way, we passed the Père Lachaise Cemetery, which is essentially the only major tourist attraction in the district. Lina: I used to live in the 20th and had visited the cemetery a few times years ago, but it is just so big. Oliver: No one should miss it because entering those gates feels like entering a different world. However, it is not wheelchair or push-chair friendly due to the huge cobblestones,. While the most famous grave is often cited as Jim Morrison, I went looking for the ultimate hit: Edith Piaf,. Her grave is somewhat unassuming, much like her famous little black dress. After the cemetery, we finally had that pizza, which lived up to the hype with its unique toppings like cheese and marmalade,. Lina: It was delicious. Oliver: Next, we looked for La Campagne à Paris, the "countryside of Paris". It's a remote area with cottage-style houses built on top of o