Leather Shop

Custom Cowboy Boots: Jake Houston on Bespoke Bootmaking & Exotic Leathers

August 19, 2026·1h 17m
Episode Description from the Publisher

GuestJake HoustonHouston Boot CompanyWhat You'll HearJake's journey from professional musician to full-time cowboy bootmakerLearning bootmaking through repair work and independent studyWhy stingray leather sparked the entire businessWorking with kangaroo, horsehide, elephant, alligator, and crocodileUnderstanding CITES regulations and state-by-state restrictionsMaterial costs and sourcing premium exotic leathersHow cowboy boot sizing differs from sneakersWhy arch length matters more than shoe sizeChoosing and modifying lasts for bespoke footwearTraditional cowboy boot construction and quality indicatorsLeather insoles, welts, stacked heels, and wood pegsWhy custom boot fitting is far more involved than off-the-shelf sizingHow Houston Boot Company StartedJake explains how leather carving began as a hobby while he was performing as a country musician. After searching unsuccessfully for a custom pair of stingray cowboy boots, he decided to learn bootmaking himself, eventually opening Houston Boot Company after studying repair work and traditional construction methods.Choosing Leather for Cowboy BootsThe conversation compares several premium leathers, including kangaroo for its strength-to-weight ratio, horsehide for its appearance, elephant for durability, and the unique challenges of working with stingray and alligator. Material selection depends not only on appearance but also on workability, longevity, and intended use.Sizing Custom BootsJake explains why proper cowboy boot fitting begins with arch length instead of overall foot length. The discussion covers Brannock measurements, width sizing, custom lasts, heel height, and how bespoke boots are built around an individual's foot rather than forcing the wearer into a standard size.Inside a Handmade Cowboy BootFrom leather insoles and welt construction to stacked leather heels and wood-pegged shanks, Jake walks through many of the details that distinguish handmade boots from mass-produced footwear and explains why those traditional construction methods continue to matter today.Find out more about our guest on his WebsiteFollow the show: leathershoppod.com · @leathershoppodSupport on Patreon for early episodes and bonus content.

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