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by Matthew Weldon of Courtville Antique & Vintage Jewellers
Uncover the dazzling history behind the world’s legendary jewels. Dive into the geological wonders that produce extraordinary gems, the brilliant minds who craft them into works of art and the unforgettable icons who bring them to life on the world stage. Follow Matthew Weldon, CEO of Courtville, as he leads a riveting adventure through the enchanting, mysterious realm of antique and vintage jewellery.
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Have you ever picked up a piece of antique jewelry and wondered how it got there? Behind every brooch, ring, or sapphire in a boutique window is a network of specialists: historians, gemologists, goldsmiths, appraisers, lapidaries, and dealers, each playing a role in the journey from discovery to display case. In this episode, Matthew Weldon of Courtville Antiques breaks down the ecosystem of the antique jewelry trade, explaining who does what, how the roles connect, and what a typical week actually looks like across the industry. Whether you already work in the trade or are considering entering it, this episode offers a candid guide to the many career paths within antique jewelry. Drawing on his own background, from studying gemology at the GIA to running Courtville and working alongside his family’s auction house, Matthew gives an honest picture of each role’s rewards and risks. From spotting overlooked treasures to the tension of handing a six-carat Burma sapphire to a lapidary, the episode makes the case that there is a place in this business for many different skill sets. Key Takeaways • Antique jewelry passes through many hands before reaching a buyer, often involving researchers, gemologists, appraisers, goldsmiths, and dealers. • Gemologists identify and assess stones scientifically, while appraisers combine those findings with market data to produce legal valuations for insurance, probate, or resale. • Skilled lapidaries are increasingly rare, creating challenges for businesses dealing with valuable antique stones. • Auctions and private sales operate differently: auctions are strictly “as is,” while private dealers are bound by consumer protections and guarantees. • Content creation has become a legitimate route into the industry, with creators and journalists building careers around shows, auctions, and trade coverage. • Matthew’s philosophy on consignment is simple: if you would not buy a piece yourself, you should not expect someone else to. Quotes “On average here in Courtville, I would say we would look at between three and four thousand pieces of jewelry a week... How many pieces do we buy? On average, I'd say we're buying one to two percent of the pieces that we'd see.” — 27:23 “If you lose a piece of antique jewelry, you might have to source lots of different antique stones... You'll also have to get a jeweller to hand make the piece.” — 8:38 “Never a more accurate phrase than measure twice, cut once.” — 22:54 Resources • GIA (Gemological Institute of America) • Gem-A, London • Wartsky’s, London • Courtville Antiques — www.courtville.ie • Miami Beach Antique Show • Jewelry, Objects and Antique Show, New York • Galerie Apollon, The Louvre • The Smithsonian • The V&A • Musée des Arts Modernes, Paris • L’École Van Cleef & Arpels Socials & Contact Instagram: @gempursuitpod Instagram: @courtvilleantiques TikTok: @matthew.weldon Email: info@gempursuit.com Selected Timestamps Why careers in antique jewelry matter Gemologist Types of valuation Goldsmith and restoration Lapidary and diamond cutter Antique jewelry dealer Auctions vs private market Content creator and jewelry journalist Museum and curatorial roles Jewelry designer www.courtville.ie Get social with Courtville, follow us on Instagram, Facebook, and TikTok This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck
In this special Ask Me Anything episode of Gem Pursuit, Matthew Weldon answers your jewellery and gemstone questions from how antique jewellery can be dated without hallmarks, to what truly makes a great emerald, and how newcomers can begin building a career in the jewellery trade. Along the way, Matthew discusses men’s engagement rings, buying instinct versus expertise, the changing world of online jewellery selling, and some unforgettable pieces that have passed through the shop over the years. Questions in this episode include: 💎 How do experts date jewellery without hallmarks? 💎 What makes a high-quality emerald? 💎 How have men’s engagement rings evolved over time? 💎 What’s the oldest piece Matthew has handled? 💎 How do you get started in the jewellery industry? 💎 What courses are actually worth taking? www.courtville.ie Get social with Courtville, follow us on Instagram, Facebook, and TikTok This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck
Was the legendary Orlov Diamond once the eye of a Hindu idol before becoming part of the Russian Crown Jewels? In this episode of Gem Pursuit, Matthew Weldon and Fenis Sigkoudi unravel the extraordinary story of the 189-carat diamond tied to Mughal emperors, Catherine the Great, theft, romance, and one of history’s greatest gem mysteries. www.courtville.ie Get social with Courtville, follow us on Instagram, Facebook, and TikTok This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck
The Dresden Green Diamond is one of the rarest diamonds in the world and one of the most mysterious. Its vivid green colour looks almost unnatural… but it’s entirely real. In this episode, we explore how this extraordinary gem gets its colour from natural radiation deep within the Earth, why that makes it so exceptionally rare, and how it became one of Europe’s most treasured jewels. From royal collections to scientific fascination, the Dresden Green has captivated experts and admirers for centuries. Is it really too green to be true? Or is it proof that nature can outdo even the most ambitious jeweller? This is part of our ongoing diamond series. If you enjoyed the episode, make sure you’re subscribed wherever you listen, and if you have a moment, please rate and review the show on Spotify or Apple Podcasts. www.courtville.ie Get social with Courtville, follow us on Instagram, Facebook, and TikTok This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck
For generations, the antique jewellery trade has been built on discretion, reputation and knowledge passed quietly from one dealer to another. But that world is changing. In this episode of Gem Pursuit, Matthew sits down with The Jewel Geek to explore what it means to develop an eye for antique jewellery in a more open, digital age. From early experiences buying at auction to building a network of trusted dealers, Brinder shares how his taste has evolved and how a combination of instinct, study and building relationships has helped him build a strong reputation in his short time in the trade. Along the way, they discuss the realities of the trade: overpaying, missing out, learning to recognise quality, and understanding what actually sells. They also reflect on the growing role of social media, the importance of educating new collectors, and why antique jewellery may be more relevant now than ever. www.courtville.ie Get social with Courtville, follow us on Instagram, Facebook, and TikTok This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck
In this episode of Gem Pursuit, we tell the extraordinary story of one of history’s greatest lost diamonds - the legendary Florentine. A pale yellow diamond of almost 140 carats, the Florentine passed through some of Europe’s most powerful dynasties, from the Medici family to the Habsburg emperors, before disappearing in the chaos that followed the fall of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. For more than a century, its fate remained one of the great unsolved mysteries in gem history. Was it stolen, recut, or lost forever? Now, after over 100 years in the shadows, the Florentine has resurfaced - and its survival opens a new chapter in a story shaped by empire, exile, war and inheritance. In this episode, Matthew Weldon and Fenia Sigkoudi explore the stone’s disputed origins, its links to the Mughal world, its place in the Habsburg treasury, and the remarkable events that led to its rediscovery. This is part three of our ongoing diamond series. If you enjoyed the episode, make sure you’re subscribed wherever you listen, and if you have a moment, please rate and review the show on Spotify or Apple Podcasts. www.courtville.ie Get social with Courtville, follow us on Instagram, Facebook, and TikTok This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck
In the second part of our diamond series, we turn from science to history. After exploring how diamonds form and how they are cut in Part I, this episode follows the extraordinary journey of the diamond through human history. From the ancient riverbeds of India to the great discoveries in Brazil and South Africa, we trace how diamonds moved across continents, empires and centuries. Along the way we explore how diamond cutting evolved from simple polishing of natural crystals to increasingly sophisticated faceting techniques that transformed the stone’s beauty. From the earliest point cuts and table cuts to the rose cut, old mine cut and the beginnings of the modern brilliant, each development reflects changing technology, taste and the growing desire to unlock the diamond’s brilliance. This is the story of how a rare natural curiosity became one of the most important gemstones in jewellery history. In the next episode of this series, we’ll turn to one of the most mysterious diamonds ever known - the legendary Florentine. If you enjoyed the episode, make sure you’re subscribed wherever you listen to podcasts, and if you have a moment please leave us a rating or review on Spotify or Apple Podcasts. www.courtville.ie Get social with Courtville, follow us on Instagram, Facebook, and TikTok This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck
Diamonds form over billions of years, deep within the Earth's mantle under unimaginable pressure. But what makes them truly extraordinary isn’t only what nature creates - it’s also what human hands choose to do next. In the first episode of our diamond series, we return to the stone we haven’t properly explored since the very early days of the podcast and ask a big question: where does nature end and craft begin? We unpack how diamonds are formed, revisit the 4 Cs, and take a close look at the one element entirely controlled by people: cut. What does a cutter actually do? How do they decide what to sacrifice and what to preserve? And why can a great cut transform a cloudy pebble into something unforgettable? www.courtville.ie Get social with Courtville, follow us on Instagram, Facebook, and TikTok This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck
Uncover the dazzling history behind the world’s legendary jewels. Dive into the geological wonders that produce extraordinary gems, the brilliant minds who craft them into works of art and the unforgettable icons who bring them to life on the world stage. Follow Matthew Weldon, CEO of Courtville, as he leads a riveting adventure through the enchanting, mysterious realm of antique and vintage jewellery.
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