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by Countrystride
A celebration of the landscapes, culture, heritage and people of Cumbria and the Lake District.
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- 5 days ago54 min
#166: The real reivers – Hidden history of the Debatable Land
...in which we ramble up remote Liddesdale in the extreme north-east of Cumbria to uncover the remarkable history of a unique independent territory transformed into a bloody borderland. In the company of author and academic Graham Robb we set out from Kershopefoot along the trackbed of the historic Waverley Line, taking in the landscape of the once-unique enclave between England and Scotland; an uninhabited ‘batable’ grazing land bounded by the rivers Liddel, Esk and Sark that formed a buffer zone between often warring nations. Stepping into the Scottish Borders, we discuss the popular perception of the ‘reiving’ families who lived around this anomalous territory – the Elliots, Armstrongs and Grahams – and the raids that saw cattle rustled and fortified peel towers set ablaze. Surveying moorland and scattered woods to rising Tinnis Hill, Graham outlines a parallel history; one of stability, in which a raid was not thuggery, but a coming-of-age ritual/form of trade in an advanced pastoral society with strict Border laws that kept the peace for 1,500 years. Passing meadows with folds and dips that made ideal hiding places for rogues and raiders, we move into the mid-1500s, when the English and Scots crowns orchestrated a plan to carve up the Debatable Land by making lawlessness legal, preparing the ground for characters like ballad outlaw Kinmont Willie and the sadistic Duke of Buccleuch to conduct reigns of terror. Closing in on Liddel Water, we learn about the end of the Debatable Land, and the “astonishingly beautiful and accurate map” (below) that recorded the establishment of what Graham argues is “the oldest detectable territorial division in Great Britain”. Reflecting on the violent excesses that wiped the one-time grazing lands from the map, Graham discusses the long shadow cast by imperial colonialism, the persistent discomfort over cross-border marriage and the independent spirit that lingers in border folk. We close with our quickfire questions, where Graham recalls a relationship-testing ascent of Swirral Edge, waxes lyrical about the definitive descriptions of Cumbrian rain in Rogue Herries and notes the advice he was given before moving into the borderlands – to “leave the pub by 9.30 at the latest”. The Debatable Land: The Lost World Between Scotland and England is published by Picador.
- Jun 26, 202654 min
Countrystride #165: Wool, Wine & Wordsworth – Hawkshead and its remarkable Grammar School
…in which we take a midsummer stroll through Hawkshead to learn about the village's deep history and its tiny school that had a big impact – not just locally, but on the world stage. Accompanied by Joanne Heather, director of the Hawkshead Grammar School Foundation, we set out from the meadows above the village to explore Hawkshead’s long history – its Norse roots, the chapelry that served Furness Abbey, and the wool trade that put the market town on the map, long before neighbouring Ambleside, Coniston and Windermere. Visiting the church of St Michael & All Angels, Joanne introduces us to the Sandys family of Graythwaite, and Edwin Sandys, Archbishop of York during the reign of Elizabeth I, who founded the school to train new generations of clergy. Arriving at the Grammar School, museum assistant manager Hollie Barker talks us through life at the school: the hours of Latin and scripture; the cock fights and sword fights; the strict rules that allowed boys (no girls) to smoke and drink, but never gamble. In the confines of the school library, we learn about old boy and London vintner Daniel Rawlinson – great grandson of Daniel Hechstetter, the patriarch of Keswick mining – who founded the school's collection of priceless books, which includes a guide to dissecting elephants. Finally, we turn our attention to the school’s most famous alumnus, William Wordsworth, enrolled into the school after his mother’s death, who excelled at maths and who led a seemingly idyllic school life ’midst the family trauma, with days off spent ice skating, visiting the Duddon sands and eating strawberries and cream. Hawkshead Grammar School Museum is open 1 April–31 October, Thursday–Monday 11am–4pm during term time, and daily 11am–4pm during school holidays. 2026 exhibitions are ‘Friends Before Fame’, about Wordsworth’s school friends, and ‘America 250’, highlighting the school’s links with America. More information about the museum and library conservation project can be found on Bloomberg Connects and at www.hawksheadgrammar.org.uk. New volunteers are always welcome; contact Joanne at hgsmuseum@gmail.com. The museum is hosting a series of evening talks, usually on the last Monday of the month. The talk on Monday 29 June is Mark Hatton (see Countrystrides past) discussing the history of Coniston Copper Mines and its links to the school. For details and tickets go to EventBrite and search for ‘A Talk at the School’, or see www.hawksheadgrammar.org.uk.
- Jun 5, 202654 min
#164: Maryport and The Vanishing Age of Sail
...in which we return to 19th-century Maryport in the company of author Simon Francis Brown to explore the world of regional shipbuilding through the exquisite illustrated journals of master shipbuilder Kelsick Wood. Starting our walk at the Shipping Brow Gallery overlooking the River Ellen, we set the historic context for Kelsick’s arrival in Maryport in around 1818 – Britain as a maritime superpower, the age of empire, the political endgame of slavery – and paint a picture of the town’s bustling harbour, its numerous taverns, the lavish dinners held for Lord Senhouse, the squalor of many residents. Battling weather on the harbour wall, we introduce Kelsick Wood, the Workington-born shipbuilder who travelled the world before acquiring the family yard at Maryport and starting the illustrated journals (excerpts below) that Simon discovered in a Greenwich archive. Sheltering from the gale in a harbourside ginnel, we discuss the business of shipbuilding: the crafts required to bring together a finished brig; the unforgiving economics of timber imports; the impact of Cumbrian weather on operations; and the insurance stranglehold held for a time by London shipbuilders. Retiring to the Golden Lion – where Kelsick spent many of his working hours entertaining potential customers and networking with the Maryport elite – we learn about the politically progressive family man who grieved the loss of a wife and six children, before winding down the podcast considering the numerous pressures which built on domestic shipbuilders – from overseas competition to the introduction of iron hulls – signalling the end of the age of sail. The Vanishing Age of Sail can be bought from Bookends in Carlisle and Keswick, and other local bookshops. It is also available from Amazon and Waterstones.
- May 15, 202656 min
#163: Walla Crag – A short history of Lake District guidebooks
...in which we climb Walla Crag in the company of academic and Back o’ Skidda’ resident Dr Liz Woodham for a deep dive into the history of guidebooks dedicated to fell-walking in Lakeland. Striding out from Surprise View, we set the historic context for the emergence of the walking guidebook – the earliest travellers seeking low-level views from Thomas West’s formative Guide to the Lakes (1778), and the use of paid mountain guides, often shepherds, taking well-heeled visitors on mountain adventures. ‘Roving Laker’ Harriet Martineau’s Complete Guide to the English Lakes(1855) was among the first to speak to fell-walkers, Liz tells us, with an ascent description of Fairfield that was – like the woman herself – quietly revolutionary. On the long climb of Cat Gill we discuss the forgotten Victorian colossus of Keswick, Henry Irwin Jenkinson, who compiled the most authoritative guide of its era, his Practical Guide to the English Lake District (1872), in just seven winter months (he would go on to consult on mountain rescues, and organise the Latrigg Fell Mass Trespass of 1887). Entering the age of M. J. B. Baddeley, we turn to his evergreen (tiny type) Thorough Guide to The English Lake District – first published in 1880 and still selling nearly a century later. We consider the democratisation of travel, and walking, in the age of rail, and the changing nature of the guidebook, as fells received dedicated chapters and publishers augmented directions with maps. Atop breezy Walla Crag we talk about the contribution of The Rev. H. H. Symonds – committed to “rescuing scraps of natural beauty” – who published a kind of ‘campaigning guidebook’ in his classic highbrow Walking in the Lake District (1933), and the very different books of his contemporary, outdoors advocate W. T. Palmer, who urged readers to get off the beaten track and take walking tours between youth hostels in his Penguin Guide, The Lake District (1939). Finally, on Falcon Crag, after a discussion of Walter Poucher’s photographic guides, we arrive at the master himself, Alfred Wainwright, whose uniquely artisanal take on the format turned the guidebook into companionable pocket art. Back at Ashness Bridge, we reflect on the factors that make for the perfect guidebook – portable, easy to use, with an intuitive blend of text and imagery – and ask Liz to name her favourite guidebook; to consider where guidebooks go in the post-AW digital age; and to tell us why Steeple remains aloof in her 214 completer’s list.
- Apr 17, 202655 min
#162: The Grasmere Dialect Plays
...in which we visit springtime Allan Bank to explore the forgotten phenomena of the Grasmere dialect plays – celebrations of Westmorland dialect and life that put Lakeland on the national cultural map for nearly 40 years – and the woman behind them, Eleanor Rawnsley (née Simpson), second wife of Canon Hardwicke Rawnsley. In the company of Eleanor's great-niece, Harriet Spence, and academic Sue Wilkinson, who has resurrected the plays for a modern audience, we discuss the emergence of the turn-of-the-century village drama movement and Eleanor's relocation from London to Grasmere, where she acquired a passion for local dialect. A series of clips from the plays featuring members of the Lakeland Dialect Society illustrate recurring themes: local traditions like rushbearing and pace egging; marriage proposals (and refusals); vignettes of everyday life including sheep-clipping and children's games. As Sue describes the plays' extraordinary rise in national fame – which brought queues over Dunmail Raise and reviews in papers worldwide – Harriet details the developing three-way relationship between Eleanor, Canon Rawnsley and his increasingly frail first wife, Edith. Emerging from World War II, we consider the demise of the plays, the death of Edith, and the short-lived marriage between Rawnsley and "True Help Meet" Eleanor. Harriet closes the podcast reflecting on the life of her "quiet, pious and kind" great aunt, whose achievements have been overshadowed by her husband, but who was not only a remarkable author and producer of plays, but also a formidable painter, campaigner and champion of all things Lakeland. The featured dialect play recordings feature the voices of John Campbell and Jean Scott-Smith. The plays will be 'coming home' to Grasmere on 10 October, 2026 in an evening of readings, music and song in Grasmere Village Hall. If you'd like to be involved – either performing or helping behind the scenes – please contact Sue Wilkinson (sue_wilkinson_2000@yahoo.com). Tickets will be advertised in advance and also available at the door. Sue's YouTube channel featuring short excerpts from the plays: youtube.com/channel/UC6wZ2EMH-UIG20Fa3SnXogw For more about the Lakeland Dialect Society: lakelanddialectsociety.co.uk
- Mar 20, 20261h 2m
#161: Donald Campbell – Speed king of Coniston
...in which we return to the golden age of speed records in the company of Dr Keith Mitchell, who was a teen when Bluebird K7 made its tragic final record attempt on Coniston in January 1967, and who has researched all things Campbell ever since. Setting out from the heart of Coniston, we introduce risk-taking Sir Malcolm Campbell – the 'national hero' record-breaker of the inter-war years – and the frenetic home life into which son Donald was born. Approaching Coniston Water, we consider young Donald's emergence from his capricious father's shadow, and his lifelong desire to seek paternal approval – even after Malcolm's death. Arriving on the lakeshore, we learn about the historic context of post-War speed records and the meeting of man and jet-powered machine that allowed Donald to set seven world water speed records between 1955 and 1964, inching him ever closer to the holy grail 300mph. As waves lap the Water's gravelly shore, Keith describes the jet-powered hydroplane's final voyage, the somersault that ended Donald's life, and the speed king's final words, which offer insights into what went wrong as the craft surpassed 320mph. Closing the pod at Donald's grave, we hear the postscript tale of the craft's recovery and rebuild, and reflect on a remarkable man piloting a remarkable craft in a remarkable place. Bluebird K7 The Festival is taking place 11–17 May, 2026: https://bluebirdk7thefestival.co.uk Keith is speaking as part of the Festival on the 11 May: https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=pfbid05tuxwjaVVncdp7HQBtJJhPQDscvzP1kc8kPKQS7hYn41wtq5cRqe9CQPBXfJUF2yl&id=100064908631980 Keith and Neil Sheppard's book 'Donald Campbell Bluebird and the Final Record Attempt' can be bought from the Ruskin Museum. To support Countrystride, you can buy our Lake District walking guidebooks at countrystride.co.uk/our-books or gift us as little as £3 a month via Patron at patreon.com/c/countrystride
- Feb 27, 20261h 7m
#160: Vicars of the fells
...in which we pull up a pew at St Oswald’s Church, Grasmere, for a wide-ranging chat about faith in the hills, fell-running and the day-to-day life of the rural vicar. Opening the podcast, we reflect on the personal and faith journeys that have led Lawrence Basham (rector of the Parish of Grasmere and Rydal), Charlie Day (curate of the Binsey Mission Community) and Sam Bentham (intern at Grasmere and Rydal) to the Lakes and consider the ‘no two days the same’ reality of life as a vicar in rural Cumbria. Turning our attention to St Oswald’s, we delve into the history of a wood-carved pulpit that links Sam Read Bookseller, a near-tragedy in the church and Greenup Edge; and consider why Grasmere Rushbearing plays such a key role in the life of the village. Disappearing down a fell-running rabbit hole, we discuss the inaugural ‘Rector’s Run’; the remarkable community of those who run in the fells and the spiritual ‘settling’ that happens when moving through wild places, before Charlie describes a heart-stopping moment in Wasdale (’Swing Low, Sweet Chariot!’) at the head of Joss Naylor’s funeral cortège. Closing our conversation, we play Cumbrian church Top Trumps (and are spoiled for choice); consider our guests’ favourite time in the church year; and brainstorm a new event for the Lakeland calendar – a drive-in midnight mass (or should that be moss) at White Moss... You heard it here first... More information on St Oswald's can be found here: https://www.achurchnearyou.com/church/12407/ More information on the Binsey Mission Community can be found here: https://www.binsey.org.uk
- Jan 23, 202646 min
#159: Blackwell – Arts & Crafts in Lakeland
...in which we head south over a snowy Dunmail Raise to immerse ourselves in the world of Arts and Crafts at Blackwell. In the company of Niall Hodson, Keeper of Collections at Lakeland Arts, we start our conversation taking a long view over wintry Windermere and the context in which the Arts & Crafts movement emerged – the rise of mass production in the Victorian age. Paying homage to John Ruskin – over the hill in Coniston – we consider the polymath visionary’s founding contribution to a movement that encompassed social justice, art and architecture, and the impact of his iconic treatise The Stones of Venice that called for traditional craftsmanship, simplicity and the use of natural materials in everything from furniture to buildings. Entering Blackwell, we are immersed in the movement made real, with immaculately detailed stonework, wood carvings, floor tiles, stained glass and wallpaper showcasing the creative talents of dozens of local craftspeople, all designed into a coherent rural retreat for the wealthy Holt family of Manchester. Wandering through room after enchanting room, we meet two more key figures whose lives are intertwined with the house: William Morris – the revolutionary designer, craftsman, social activist, and founder of Morris & Co – and Blackwell architect Mackay Hugh Baillie Scott, whose extraordinary vision gave rise to one of Lakeland’s finest, and most eccentric, houses. In divers quickfire ramblings that take in pubs, breweries and stag do’s, we proceed into Blackwell’s recent past, and its second life as an evacuees’ boarding school, before closing by considering the legacy of one of the country’s most important arts movements – as relevant as ever in the age of AI. Blackwell is open from now until 31 March: Monday – Saturday 10am – 4pm, then 1 April – 31 October: Monday to Saturday 10am – 5pm. The house is currently exhibiting 'Frances Priest Motif | Line | Colour' until 11 April, 2026. Explore the ceramic work of celebrated Edinburgh-based artist Frances Priest in an exhibition tracing 25 years of her artistic work. More about Blackwell can be found at: lakelandarts.org.uk/blackwell/
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A celebration of the landscapes, culture, heritage and people of Cumbria and the Lake District.
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